Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

47

Time Required

                          1 hour

Sections

8

  • Rear Panel
  • 8 steps
  • Micro SD Card Reader
  • 2 steps
  • Shield Plate
  • 3 steps
  • Battery Disconnect
  • 1 step
  • Heat Sink
  • 3 steps
  • Headphone Jack and Game Card Reader
  • 6 steps
  • Motherboard
  • 18 steps
  • WiFi Antenna
  • 6 steps

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What you need

Step 1

              Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
  • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
  • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
  • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the Joy Con controllers
  • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
  • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.

Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

              Remove the back-side screws
  • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 4

              Remove the top and bottom screws
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
  • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
  • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
  • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 5

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Step 6

  • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
  • If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 7

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
  • Close the kickstand.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

Close the kickstand.

Step 8

  • Open the game card cartridge flap.
  • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.
  • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Open the game card cartridge flap.

The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.

Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Step 9

              Remove the microSD card reader
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Step 10

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
  • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Step 11

              Remove the shield plate
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Step 12

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
  • If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Step 13

  • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
  • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
  • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
  • You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
  • If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.

You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.

If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 14

              Disconnect the battery
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 15

              Remove the heat sink
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

  • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
  • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
  • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
  • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,
  • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
  • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,

Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Step 17

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
  • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
  • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Step 18

              Remove the headphone jack and game card reader
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 19

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

Step 20

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Step 21

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

Step 22

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

Step 23

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

Step 24

              Remove the motherboard
  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 25

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 26

  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

Step 27

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 28

  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 29

Step 30

  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 31

Step 32

  • Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail’s data cable ZIF connector.

Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail’s data cable ZIF connector.

Step 33

Step 34

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 35

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 36

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
  • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They’re very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They’re very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

Step 37

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
  • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They’re very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 38

  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.

Step 39

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 40

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws:
  • Four 2.5 mm screws
  • Two 3.1 mm screws

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws:

Four 2.5 mm screws

Two 3.1 mm screws

Step 41

  • Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.
  • Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.

Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

Step 42

              Remove the Fan
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

Step 43

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.
  • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

Step 44

  • Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe.

Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe.

Step 45

  • Continue following the wire, derouting it as you go.

Continue following the wire, derouting it as you go.

Step 46

  • Pry the metal barrel surrounding the coax up from the midframe.

Pry the metal barrel surrounding the coax up from the midframe.

Step 47

  • Grasp the WiFi antenna board with a pair of tweezers and lift straight up to remove it.

Grasp the WiFi antenna board with a pair of tweezers and lift straight up to remove it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Jerry W

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