Featured

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

39

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

7

  • Rear Panel
  • 8 steps
  • Micro SD Card Reader
  • 2 steps
  • Shield Plate
  • 3 steps
  • Battery Disconnect
  • 1 step
  • Heat Sink
  • 3 steps
  • Headphone Jack and Game Card Reader
  • 6 steps
  • Screen
  • 16 steps

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Introduction

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

What you need

Step 1

              Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
  • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
  • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
  • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the Joy Con controllers
  • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
  • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.

Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

              Remove the back-side screws
  • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 4

              Remove the top and bottom screws
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
  • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
  • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
  • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 5

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Step 6

  • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
  • If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 7

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
  • Close the kickstand.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

Close the kickstand.

Step 8

  • Open the game card cartridge flap.
  • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.
  • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Open the game card cartridge flap.

The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.

Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Step 9

              Remove the microSD card reader
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Step 10

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
  • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Step 11

              Remove the shield plate
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Step 12

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
  • If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Step 13

  • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
  • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
  • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
  • You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
  • If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.

You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.

If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 14

              Disconnect the battery
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 15

              Remove the heat sink
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

  • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
  • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
  • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
  • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,
  • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
  • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,

Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Step 17

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
  • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
  • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Step 18

              Remove the headphone jack and game card reader
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 19

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

Step 20

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Step 21

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

Step 22

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

Step 23

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

Step 24

              Screen
  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 25

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 26

  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 27

Step 28

  • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.
  • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 29

  • Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.
  • Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.
  • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.
  • Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.

Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.

Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

Step 30

  • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
  • Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

Step 31

  • Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.
  • Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.
  • Leave the opening pick inserted.

Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.

Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.

Leave the opening pick inserted.

Step 32

  • Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 33

  • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

Step 34

  • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

Step 35

  • Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 36

  • Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Step 37

  • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Step 38

  • Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
  • Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.
  • Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.

Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

Step 39

  • Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.
  • Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.
  • You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.

Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.

Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

If your new screen doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

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                    Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

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pvantilb05 - Jul 16, 2022

Reply

What size tesa tape best fits the original (not OLED) switch? I have a slightly loose screen and don’t want to disassemble to measure without having the right size on hand.