Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

22

Time Required

                          30 minutes - 2 hours            

Sections

6

  • Rear Panel
  • 8 steps
  • Shield Plate
  • 3 steps
  • Battery Disconnect
  • 1 step
  • Heat Sink
  • 3 steps
  • Fan
  • 4 steps
  • Power and Volume Button Board
  • 3 steps

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Introduction

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

What you need

Step 1

              Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs               
  • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
  • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
  • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

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Step 2

              Remove the Joy Con controllers               
  • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
  • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.

Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

              Remove the back-side screws               
  • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 4

              Remove the top and bottom screws               
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
  • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
  • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
  • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 5

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Step 6

  • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
  • If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 7

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
  • Close the kickstand.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

Close the kickstand.

Step 8

  • Open the game card cartridge flap.
  • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.
  • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Open the game card cartridge flap.

The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.

Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Step 9

              Remove the shield plate               
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Step 10

  • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
  • If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Step 11

  • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
  • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
  • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
  • You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
  • If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.

You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.

If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 12

              Disconnect the battery               
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 13

              Remove the heat sink               
  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 14

  • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
  • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
  • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
  • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,
  • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
  • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,

Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Step 15

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
  • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
  • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Step 16

              Remove the fan               
  • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

Step 17

  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 18

  • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

Step 19

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.
  • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

Step 20

              Power and Volume Button Board               
  • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Step 21

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.

Step 22

  • Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Blake Klein                     

Member since: 01/29/2017

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William Flo - Mar 28, 2020

Reply

Great guide. Just repaired my daughters Switch by replacing power button.

nem37g - May 15, 2020

Reply

I replaced the cable and still have the same issue, volume up button don’t work and volume down is volume up, and it’s always kn

Jaime Casado - Dec 31, 2021

Hi, did you manage to fix it? I have the exact issue

Jaime Casado - Jan 10, 2022

I changed the cable and it works.

Thanks

Draque Thompson - Oct 20, 2021

Reply

Great guide. There were a couple of steps I found missing, but the rest of the guide had very similar steps, so just applying the same logic to the mini-boards I had to pull worked perfectly. This guide saved me from having to buy a new switch or pay almost the price of a new one to have it repaired!