Nintendo Switch Oled Model Screen Oled Assembly Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

Rear Case
9 steps
Shield Plate
15 steps
Game Card Reader Daughterboard
3 steps
Heat Sink
3 steps
Fan
4 steps
Motherboard
13 steps
Left Joy-Con Sensor Rail
3 steps
Bottom Rail
2 steps
Screen OLED Assembly
10 steps

Flags

BackNintendo Switch OLED
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

The assembly includes the frame with the OLED panel and speakers attached to it. If you’re replacing the OLED panel by itself, follow this guide instead.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste when replacing the heat sink.

What you need

Step 1

              Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the Joy Con controllers

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.

Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

              Remove the top screw

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 4

              Remove the bottom screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.

Step 5

              Remove the right screw

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

Step 6

              Remove the left screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.

Step 7

              Open the kickstand

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 8

              Remove the back-side screws

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.

Step 9

              Remove the rear case

Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.

Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.

Step 10

              Remove the shield plate's tape

Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.

Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.

Step 11

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.
Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.

Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.

Step 12

              Disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 13

              Reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.

Step 14

              Unfasten the primary Wi-Fi antenna

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Step 15

              Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna

Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.

Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

Step 16

Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.

Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 17

              Disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.

Step 18

              Reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.

Step 19

              Unfasten the secondary Wi-Fi antenna

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.

Step 20

              Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna

Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Don’t attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.

Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.

Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.

Don’t attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.

Step 21

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.

Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.

Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 22

              Unfasten the shield plate

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.

Step 23

Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

Remove the shield plate.

A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 24

              Disconnect the battery

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.

Step 25

              Remove the tape

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard’s screw.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard’s screw.

Step 26

              Unfasten the daughterboard

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.

Step 27

              Remove the daughterboard

The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a press connector.
Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.
Remove the daughterboard.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a press connector.

Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.

Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.

Remove the daughterboard.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 28

              Unfasten the heat sink

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 29

              Remove the heat sink

Insert a spudger between the heat sink’s bracket and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the motherboard.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Insert a spudger between the heat sink’s bracket and the motherboard.

Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the motherboard.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Step 30

Insert a spudger in the gap between the fan and the heat sink.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the adhesive beneath it.
Remove the heat sink.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Insert a spudger in the gap between the fan and the heat sink.

Pry up with the spudger to separate the heat sink from the adhesive beneath it.

Remove the heat sink.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Step 31

              Disconnect the fan's ZIF connector

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 32

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 33

              Unfasten the fan

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the fan to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the fan to the frame.

Step 34

              Remove the fan

Use a spudger to lift the fan out straight out of the frame.
Remove the fan.

Use a spudger to lift the fan out straight out of the frame.

Remove the fan.

Step 35

              Disconnect the power button board's ZIF connector

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power button board’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power button board’s ZIF connector.

Step 36

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the power button board cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the power button board cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 37

              Disconnect the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s ZIF connector.

Step 38

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 39

              Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail

Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.

Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.

Step 40

              Disconnect the display's ZIF connector

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the hinged locking flap on the display’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the hinged locking flap on the display’s ZIF connector.

Step 41

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the display cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the display cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 42

              Disconnect the right speaker

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the left speaker’s JST connector out of its socket.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the left speaker’s JST connector out of its socket.

Step 43

              Disconnect the left speaker

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the right speaker’s JST connector out of its socket.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the right speaker’s JST connector out of its socket.

Step 44

              Disconnect the left Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector

Step 45

Step 46

              Unfasten the motherboard

Use a Phillips driver to remove the five screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Three 3 mm screws
Two 4.4 mm screws

Use a Phillips driver to remove the five screws securing the midframe to the frame:

Three 3 mm screws

Two 4.4 mm screws

Step 47

              Remove the motherboard

Insert a spudger between the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the motherboard from the frame.
Remove the motherboard.

Insert a spudger between the motherboard and the frame.

Pry up with the spudger to separate the motherboard from the frame.

Remove the motherboard.

Step 48

              Left Joy-Con Sensor Rail

Use your fingers to gently peel back the left Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable from the frame.

Use your fingers to gently peel back the left Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable from the frame.

Step 49

              Unfasten the left Joy-Con sensor rail

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.

Step 50

              Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail

Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail.

Remove the left Joy-Con sensor rail.

Step 51

              Unfasten the bottom rail

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3 mm screws securing the bottom rail to the frame.

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3 mm screws securing the bottom rail to the frame.

Step 52

              Remove the bottom rail

Remove the bottom rail.

Remove the bottom rail.

Step 53

              Separate the power board button's adhesive

Use your fingers to gently peel back the power board button’s cable from the frame.

Use your fingers to gently peel back the power board button’s cable from the frame.

Step 54

              Remove the power button board

Use your fingers to pull the power button board out from its plastic slots in the frame.
Remove the power button board.

Use your fingers to pull the power button board out from its plastic slots in the frame.

Remove the power button board.

Step 55

              Apply isopropyl alcohol

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.
If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well along the top edge to weaken the adhesive.

If you are using adhesive remover, follow these preparation steps first.

Step 56

Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.
Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 57

              Separate the battery's adhesive

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.
Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.

Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 58

Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.
Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.

Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

Step 59

Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.

Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.

Step 60

Once there’s enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.
Apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.
Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.

Once there’s enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.

Apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.

Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.

Step 61

              Remove the battery

Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery’s adhesive.
Remove the battery.
Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.
If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Pry up with the plastic card to completely separate the battery’s adhesive.

Remove the battery.

Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.

If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.

Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Step 62

              Only the screen OLED assembly remains

You’re now left with the Screen OLED Assembly.

You’re now left with the Screen OLED Assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

Author

                                      with 1 other contributor

                    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 01/16/2022

58,262 Reputation

                                      300 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       30







                                                        +27 more badges

Team

                       iFixit                        

                                                  Member of iFixit 



                    Community                     


                                            141 Members                     


                                            15,772 Guides authored

Introduction#

What you need#

Team#

Introduction

What you need

Team