Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
31
Time Required
30 minutes - 1 hour
Sections
4
- Rear Case
- 9 steps
- Shield Plate
- 15 steps
- Game Card Reader Daughterboard
- 3 steps
- Right Joy-Con Sensor Rail
- 4 steps
Flags
0
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Introduction
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your Switch. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
The Switch OLED uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.
Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste.
What you need
Step 1
Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs
- Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
- Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
- While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.
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Step 2
Remove the Joy Con controllers
- Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
- Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
Step 3
Remove the top screw
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
- To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 2 mm-long screw securing the top of the rear case to the frame.
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly, and try another JIS or Phillips driver if the screws won’t come out.
Step 4
Remove the bottom screws
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2 mm-long screws securing the bottom of the rear case to the frame.
Step 5
Remove the right screw
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.8 mm screw securing the right Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
Step 6
Remove the left screws
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the rear case.
Step 7
Open the kickstand
- Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
- If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
Step 8
Remove the back-side screws
- Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm screws securing the rear case to the frame.
Step 9
Remove the rear case
- Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.
Lift the rear case up from the top of the device and remove it.
Step 10
Remove the shield plate's tape
- Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.
Use the flat end of a spudger to separate a corner of the tape from the shield plate.
Step 11
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.
- Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel back and remove the tape.
Store the tape in a clean space for reinstallation.
Step 12
Disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.
- During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the primary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Step 13
Reroute the primary antenna's coaxial cable
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to reroute the primary antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slots in the shield plate.
Step 14
Unfasten the primary Wi-Fi antenna
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 4.4 mm screws securing the primary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Step 15
Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna
- Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
- Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Insert an opening pick between the primary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the primary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Step 16
- Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.
Remove the primary Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 17
Disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull up and disconnect the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable.
Step 18
Reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna's coaxial cable
- Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.
Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable from its slot in the frame.
Step 19
Unfasten the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4.4 mm screw securing the secondary Wi-Fi antenna to the shield plate.
Step 20
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna
- Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
- Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
- Don’t attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.
Insert an opening pick between the secondary Wi-Fi antenna and the shield plate.
Pry up with the pick to separate the secondary Wi-Fi antenna from the shield plate.
Don’t attempt to completely remove the antenna yet, as its coaxial cable is still routed through the frame.
Step 21
- Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.
- Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.
Use the point of a spudger to reroute the secondary Wi-Fi antenna’s coaxial cable out of its slot in the frame.
Remove the secondary Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 22
Unfasten the shield plate
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 4.4 mm screws securing the shield plate to the frame.
Step 23
- Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.
- You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
- Remove the shield plate.
- A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.
Use your fingers to lift the top of the shield plate up and away from the frame.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.
Step 24
Disconnect the battery
- Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery.
Step 25
Remove the tape
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard’s screw.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the piece of tape obscuring the daughterboard’s screw.
Step 26
Unfasten the daughterboard
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 4 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.
Step 27
Remove the daughterboard
- The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a press connector.
- Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.
- Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.
- Remove the daughterboard.
- To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
The bottom of the daughterboard is connected to the motherboard via a press connector.
Insert a spudger between the edge of the daughterboard and the motherboard.
Pry up with the spudger to disconnect the press connector and separate the daughterboard from the frame.
Remove the daughterboard.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 28
Disconnect the right Joy-Con sensor rail's ZIF connector
- Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s ZIF connector.
Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s ZIF connector.
Step 29
- Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the right Joy-Con sensor rail’s cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
Step 30
Unfasten the right Joy-Con sensor rail
- Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.8 mm screws securing the left Joy-Con sensor rail to the frame.
Step 31
Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail
- Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.
Remove the right Joy-Con sensor rail.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch OLED Answers community for help.
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