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Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

65

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

9

  • Back Panel
  • 8 steps
  • Shield Plate
  • 2 steps
  • Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Disconnection
  • 3 steps
  • Heat Sink
  • 3 steps
  • Game Card Reader and Headphone Jack
  • 3 steps
  • Motherboard Assembly
  • 14 steps
  • Right Joystick
  • 2 steps
  • Left Joystick
  • 16 steps
  • Screen
  • 14 steps

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Introduction

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: Removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, but it makes this repair much easier.

Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the back panel screws
  • Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.
  • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
  • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the top and bottom back panel screws
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
  • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
  • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
  • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 3

              Release the clips securing the back panel
  • Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
  • Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
  • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 4

              Continue releasing the clips around the device
  • Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Step 5

              Twist to release the clips
  • Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
  • Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
  • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

Step 6

              Slide and pry around the corners
  • Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Step 7

  • Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Step 8

              Remove the back panel
  • Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
  • Remove the back panel.

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

Remove the back panel.

Step 9

              Remove the shield plate
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
  • Three 3.1 mm screws
  • One 4.5 mm screw

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

Three 3.1 mm screws

One 4.5 mm screw

Step 10

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
  • Remove the shield plate.
  • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

Remove the shield plate.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

Step 11

              Disconnect the battery
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 12

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 13

  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 14

              Remove the heat sink
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that’s lightly adhered to the fan.
  • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that’s lightly adhered to the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

Step 15

  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.
  • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
  • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Step 17

              Remove the game card reader and headphone jack
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 18

  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 19

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.
  • Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 20

              Remove the right trigger button assembly
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

Step 21

  • Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Step 22

  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly’s rubber pad if it didn’t stay attached to the button assembly.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly’s rubber pad if it didn’t stay attached to the button assembly.

Step 23

              Disconnect the antenna cables
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
  • Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Step 24

              Disconnect the fan cable
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 25

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

Step 26

              Disconnect the screen cable
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 27

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 28

              Disconnect the digitizer cable
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 29

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 30

              Disconnect the right joystick cable
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 31

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 32

              Remove the motherboard assembly
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
  • Three 3.1 mm screws
  • Three 4.5 mm screws

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

Three 3.1 mm screws

Three 4.5 mm screws

Step 33

  • Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.
  • Remove the motherboard assembly.

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

Remove the motherboard assembly.

Step 34

              Remove the right joystick
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Step 35

  • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
  • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Step 36

              Remove the left speaker module
  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
  • Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.

Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

Step 37

  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Step 38

  • Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.
  • Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.

Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Step 39

              Disconnect the motherboard interconnect cable

Step 40

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Step 41

              Disconnect the screen and volume button cables
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Step 42

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
  • Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Step 43

              Remove the volume buttons
  • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Step 44

              Disconnect the joystick cable
  • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 45

  • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Step 46

              Remove the left trigger button assembly
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Step 47

  • Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Step 48

              Remove the daughterboard
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
  • Two 4.5 mm screws
  • Two 6 mm screws

Two 4.5 mm screws

Two 6 mm screws

Step 49

  • Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Step 50

              Remove the left joystick
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Step 51

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.
  • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
  • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.

Step 52

              Remove the midframe assembly
  • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
  • Three 2.5 mm screws
  • One 6 mm screw

Three 2.5 mm screws

One 6 mm screw

Step 53

  • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.
  • Remove the midframe assembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.

Remove the midframe assembly.

Step 54

              Remove the buttons
  • At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven’t done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.
  • Use these two photos for reference.

At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven’t done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

Use these two photos for reference.

Step 55

              Remove the screen
  • Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
  • A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it’s susceptible to heat damage.

Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it’s susceptible to heat damage.

Step 56

  • Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.
  • Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don’t split and damage it.
  • You’ll know you’re splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.

Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don’t split and damage it.

You’ll know you’re splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Step 57

  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Step 58

  • Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 59

  • Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.
  • The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.

The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

Step 60

  • Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 61

  • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
  • You’ll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen’s edge to work around the frame.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

You’ll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen’s edge to work around the frame.

Step 62

  • Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 63

  • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
  • Take care not to snag the screen’s daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Take care not to snag the screen’s daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Step 64

  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.
  • If you’re reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.

If you’re reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Step 65

  • If you’re also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.
  • Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

If you’re also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.

Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

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                                                                                      27 other people completed this guide.

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                    Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

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Luke Randall - Nov 20, 2020

Reply

Followed the guide to replaced a cracked screen on a Switch Lite, all good, guide was easy to follow and refitting wasn’t too hard either, just a reversal of the disassembly

Sam Red - Jan 23, 2021

Reply

Fantastic guide, exactly what I was looking for! Unfortunately I managed to make the tape unusable and I need tape to connect the lcd to the digitizer and the digitizer to the case. I will likely use 2-3mm tape for the lcd to digitizer but I’m unsure what to use to connect the digitizer to the case. Any suggestions?

Matthew D. H. - Feb 12, 2021

Reply

Thanks for taking the time to type this up. Really appreciate the effort that went in to this guide.

Stephen Hotchkiss - Apr 12, 2021

Reply

Great guide, I wish it would mention some of the procedures to tape the screen back in. After that, reversing the process was easy.

mathiasludewig - Jun 2, 2021

Reply

For gluing the screen and digitizer back in, I would strongly recommend liquid glue, like Zhanlida T-8000 for example. You can apply it very precisely and you can also correct/remove it if needed pretty easily. I used this stuff to repair around 200 phones and tablets in the last couple of years and were never disappointed.

Also I would remove the digitizer AND the screen together, before removing the screen first from the digitizer… This will make the process of removing the screen from the digitizer a lot easier and safer.

I have ordered a crystal replacement case and a used lite with a scratched digitizer.. Have glued in the replacement digitizer so far, the console should arrive tomorrow.

Gluing in the digitizer was a breeze, just applied some glue all around (be careful not to use too much) and then just pressed down the digitizer all around and put a book on the top… Let the glue harden for around 24 hours and you are good to go.

Will leave some feedback how the screen removal went tomorrow. ;)