Nintendo Switch Lite Digitizer Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

Back Panel
8 steps
Shield Plate
2 steps
Nintendo Switch Lite Battery Disconnection
3 steps
Heat Sink
3 steps
Game Card Reader and Headphone Jack
3 steps
Motherboard Assembly
14 steps
Right Joystick
2 steps
Left Joystick
16 steps
Screen
14 steps
Digitizer
12 steps

Flags

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Introduction

The Switch Lite uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

Note: If the screen stopped working, you may just need to replace the screen, rather than the digitizer.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the back panel screws

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.
Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

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Step 2

              Remove the top and bottom back panel screws

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 3

              Release the clips securing the back panel

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Step 4

              Continue releasing the clips around the device

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

Step 5

              Twist to release the clips

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.
Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

Step 6

              Slide and pry around the corners

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

Step 7

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

Step 8

              Remove the back panel

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.
Remove the back panel.

Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

Remove the back panel.

Step 9

              Remove the shield plate

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 3.1 mm screws
One 4.5 mm screw

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:

Three 3.1 mm screws

One 4.5 mm screw

Step 10

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
Remove the shield plate.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

Remove the shield plate.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

Step 11

              Disconnect the battery

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 12

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 13

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 14

              Remove the heat sink

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that’s lightly adhered to the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that’s lightly adhered to the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

Step 15

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Step 17

              Remove the game card reader and headphone jack

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 18

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.
Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

Step 20

              Remove the right trigger button assembly

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

Step 21

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Remove the right trigger button assembly.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly’s rubber pad if it didn’t stay attached to the button assembly.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly’s rubber pad if it didn’t stay attached to the button assembly.

Step 23

              Disconnect the antenna cables

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

Step 24

              Disconnect the fan cable

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

Step 26

              Disconnect the screen cable

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 28

              Disconnect the digitizer cable

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 29

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 30

              Disconnect the right joystick cable

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 31

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Step 32

              Remove the motherboard assembly

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
Three 3.1 mm screws
Three 4.5 mm screws

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

Three 3.1 mm screws

Three 4.5 mm screws

Step 33

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.
Remove the motherboard assembly.

Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

Remove the motherboard assembly.

Step 34

              Remove the right joystick

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

Step 35

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Step 36

              Remove the left speaker module

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.
Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.

Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

Step 37

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

Step 38

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.
Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.

Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

Step 39

              Disconnect the motherboard interconnect cable

Step 40

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Step 41

              Disconnect the screen and volume button cables

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

Step 42

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

Step 43

              Remove the volume buttons

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

Step 44

              Disconnect the joystick cable

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable’s ZIF connector.

Step 45

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

Step 46

              Remove the left trigger button assembly

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

Step 47

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Remove the left trigger button assembly.

Step 48

              Remove the daughterboard

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Two 4.5 mm screws
Two 6 mm screws

Two 4.5 mm screws

Two 6 mm screws

Step 49

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

Step 50

              Remove the left joystick

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

Step 51

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.
Use your fingers to remove the joystick.
There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.

Step 52

              Remove the midframe assembly

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following four screws:
Three 2.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw

Three 2.5 mm screws

One 6 mm screw

Step 53

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.
Remove the midframe assembly.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.

Remove the midframe assembly.

Step 54

              Remove the buttons

At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven’t done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.
Use these two photos for reference.

At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven’t done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

Use these two photos for reference.

Step 55

              Remove the screen

Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it’s susceptible to heat damage.

Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it’s susceptible to heat damage.

Step 56

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.
Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don’t split and damage it.
You’ll know you’re splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.

Make sure to insert the pick completely under the LCD panel so you don’t split and damage it.

You’ll know you’re splitting the panel if the silver backing bubbles and separates from the white lining.

Step 57

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Step 58

Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 59

Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.
The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.

The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

Step 60

Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 61

Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
You’ll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen’s edge to work around the frame.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

You’ll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen’s edge to work around the frame.

Step 62

Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 63

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Take care not to snag the screen’s daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Take care not to snag the screen’s daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

Step 64

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.
If you’re reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.

If you’re reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

Step 65

If you’re also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.
Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.
Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

If you’re also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.

Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

Step 66

              Remove the digitizer

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

Step 67

Slightly bend the left side of the frame to create a gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
If you’re having difficulty creating a gap, apply more heat.

Slightly bend the left side of the frame to create a gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

If you’re having difficulty creating a gap, apply more heat.

Step 68

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 69

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Step 70

Continue working the opening pick around the top-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Continue working the opening pick around the top-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 71

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 72

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Step 73

Continue working the opening pick around the bottom-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Continue working the opening pick around the bottom-left edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 74

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the digitizer to slice the adhesive.

Step 75

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Heat the front side of the digitizer along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Step 76

Use your hands to slowly lift the left side of the digitizer, opening it like a book.
The positioning of the digitizer cables prevents removing the digitizer straight off the frame.

Use your hands to slowly lift the left side of the digitizer, opening it like a book.

The positioning of the digitizer cables prevents removing the digitizer straight off the frame.

Step 77

Lift the right side of the digitizer straight off the frame at a 45-degree angle to remove it.

Lift the right side of the digitizer straight off the frame at a 45-degree angle to remove it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

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                    Craig Lloyd

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Bridger Caicedo - Jan 16, 2021

Great guide, but quick tip when removing the screen. There are two pieces of the screen sandwiched together and when I took mine apart, these two pieces came unstuck and ruined the screen itself. The digitizer was fine, but the LCD came apart. So make sure the opening pick gets under both of these parts rather than just the reflective back.

Matthew D. H. - Mar 12, 2021

I bought this Switch Lite with a broken LCD to repair and sell, so the screen was already blown out, but I had the same issue. The LCD was still connected to the digitizer and it actually peeled the LCD apart. As I said earlier, the LCD was already broke so it wasn’t a big issue, but I would of been fairly angry if it hadn’t of been.

Johnmichael Quinlan - Mar 6, 2022

it looks like it might be possible to do steps 1 - 10, then step 28, then steps 66 onwards, and reverse to reassemble, the guide isn’t clear why it would be required to do a full tear down, is there something that would make this method not work or more likely to cause further damage, if I’m just switching out the digitizer, pun intended.. :) ?

Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need