Nintendo Switch Heat Sink Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          20 - 45 minutes

Sections

Rear Panel
8 steps
Micro SD Card Reader
2 steps
Shield Plate
3 steps
Battery Disconnect
1 step
Heat Sink
3 steps

Flags

BackNintendo Switch
Full Screen
Options
History
Save to Favorites
Download PDF
Edit
Translate
Get Shareable Link
Embed This Guide
Notify Me of Changes
Stop Notifications

Introduction

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit’s Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however need normal replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

What you need

Step 1

              Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.
Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.
While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

1024

Step 2

              Remove the Joy Con controllers

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.
Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it’s completely removed from the console.

Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

Step 3

              Remove the back-side screws

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 4

              Remove the top and bottom screws

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:
One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device
To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won’t come out.

Step 5

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

Step 6

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.
If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

If there’s a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

Step 7

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
Close the kickstand.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

Close the kickstand.

Step 8

Open the game card cartridge flap.
The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.
Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Open the game card cartridge flap.

The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it’s closed.

Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

Step 9

              Remove the microSD card reader

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

Step 10

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.
During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

Step 11

              Remove the shield plate

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

Step 12

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.
If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

If the foam doesn’t easily peel away, don’t force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

Step 13

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.
Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.
You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.
If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. This helps prevent the Switch from overheating.

You can reuse the pink thermal compound if you’re careful. Keep the compound clean and make sure it makes solid contact between the heat sink and the shield during reassembly.

If you need to replace it, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

Step 14

              Disconnect the battery

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 15

              Remove the heat sink

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 16

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.
The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.
The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,
Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.
Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn’t stuck against anything,

Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

Step 17

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.
Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      36 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 7 other contributors

                    Craig Lloyd

Member since: 02/10/2016

28,344 Reputation

                                      82 Guides authored                  



                       Badges:
                       41







                                                        +38 more badges

Nate Topical - Dec 9, 2019

I couldn’t even get past the first step because my screws were in so tight I made them threadbare trying to get them out. I did use the iFixit toolkit so I was using the right head but taking the screws out is not as easy as demonstrated lol

Luigi Igii - Jan 6, 2021

same mines are stripped

Angela Evans - Sep 9, 2022

Same happened to me :( I was able to file down the screwdriver I was given and it worked on three of the screws before they’d stripped too much. The fourth screw I couldn’t remove so I was able to slightly bend and turn the backing enough to access the fan. I also wasn’t able to peel the tape back without it completely disintegrating. Haha guess I don’t have the magic touch.

Carlos O - Jun 7, 2021

Do you need the K5 thermal peas or is the Arctic silver 5 thermal paste enough?

Daniele Carminati - Jun 7, 2021

You just need a good thermal paste

Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need