Nikon D610 Flash Capacitor Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 1 hour

Sections

Battery
3 steps
Outer Case
5 steps
Flash Capacitor
2 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Battery

First, power off the device.

First, power off the device.

1024

Step 2

Set the camera so that it is sitting on its side.
Open the battery compartment door by sliding the release button towards the lens.
This will cause the door to “pop” open slightly

Set the camera so that it is sitting on its side.

Open the battery compartment door by sliding the release button towards the lens.

This will cause the door to “pop” open slightly

Step 3

Now lift open the battery compartment door.
Push the yellow tab lock towards the center to release the battery.
This will cause the battery to jump up as there is a spring at the bottom.
Pull straight out, slowly on the battery.
Make sure you pay attention to which way the battery goes .

Now lift open the battery compartment door.

Push the yellow tab lock towards the center to release the battery.

This will cause the battery to jump up as there is a spring at the bottom.

Pull straight out, slowly on the battery.

Make sure you pay attention to which way the battery goes .

Step 4

              Outer Case

After removal of the battery. Pull the battery compartment door away from the lens.
There are eleven Philips head screws that hold the bottom cover on, including a few inside the battery compartment.
Remove all the screws and the bottom face should pop off easily.

After removal of the battery. Pull the battery compartment door away from the lens.

There are eleven Philips head screws that hold the bottom cover on, including a few inside the battery compartment.

Remove all the screws and the bottom face should pop off easily.

Step 5

Then next step is removing the seven Philips #00 screws that hold the rear face plate on.
There are screws hidden in three separate spots.
One is under the rubber doors on the left side of the camera. the next one at the eye hole.
The final one involves taking off the small dial that is about half an inch to the right of the eye hole.
Removing this dial involves putting a spungder tool behind it and applying a gradual amount of pressure.

Then next step is removing the seven Philips #00 screws that hold the rear face plate on.

There are screws hidden in three separate spots.

One is under the rubber doors on the left side of the camera. the next one at the eye hole.

The final one involves taking off the small dial that is about half an inch to the right of the eye hole.

Removing this dial involves putting a spungder tool behind it and applying a gradual amount of pressure.

Step 6

The rear face plate will include the LCD display it separates from the body of the camera with a small tug.
Do not pull to hard otherwise you risk breaking the ribbon wire that connects the controls and the screen.
Once there is enough space it will be possible to gently pull the ribbon cable out of their ports.

The rear face plate will include the LCD display it separates from the body of the camera with a small tug.

Do not pull to hard otherwise you risk breaking the ribbon wire that connects the controls and the screen.

Once there is enough space it will be possible to gently pull the ribbon cable out of their ports.

Step 7

The next piece to come off is the front plate and the red grip.
The front plate is held on by 2 Philips #00 screws on the front and two more beneath the flash bulb.
Remove the two Phillips #00 screws holding on the grip and it slides off easily.
After removing the screws the face plate comes off by pulling it straight off to avoid damage.

The next piece to come off is the front plate and the red grip.

The front plate is held on by 2 Philips #00 screws on the front and two more beneath the flash bulb.

Remove the two Phillips #00 screws holding on the grip and it slides off easily.

After removing the screws the face plate comes off by pulling it straight off to avoid damage.

Step 8

It is now possible to remove the last three Philips #00 screws that are hidden under the memory card slot door.
The screws come out and the cover comes straight off.
The last cover plate is the top. The top is held on by two screws located just beneath the rim of the cover.
The top should be pulled off very slowly. There are several electronic components that connect between the body and the top.
There are three wires that need to be disconnected.

It is now possible to remove the last three Philips #00 screws that are hidden under the memory card slot door.

The screws come out and the cover comes straight off.

The last cover plate is the top. The top is held on by two screws located just beneath the rim of the cover.

The top should be pulled off very slowly. There are several electronic components that connect between the body and the top.

There are three wires that need to be disconnected.

Step 9

              Flash Capacitor

The flash capacitor will be to the right of the lens on the front of the camera.
There is only one connection that the flash capacitor makes but this was detached earlier.
The pictures shown for the flash capacitor removal is from a complete tear down.

The flash capacitor will be to the right of the lens on the front of the camera.

There is only one connection that the flash capacitor makes but this was detached earlier.

The pictures shown for the flash capacitor removal is from a complete tear down.

Step 10

If your flash capacitor looks damaged you can create a discharge tool with this guide. Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool
Then use the plastic opening tool to pry from underneath the capacitor from top to bottom in order to remove it.
Please note that there is glue holding the capacitor to the frame so it will need some coaxing to get it off.

If your flash capacitor looks damaged you can create a discharge tool with this guide. Constructing a Capacitor Discharge Tool

Then use the plastic opening tool to pry from underneath the capacitor from top to bottom in order to remove it.

Please note that there is glue holding the capacitor to the frame so it will need some coaxing to get it off.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Author

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                    Daniel Eagan

Member since: 02/10/2016

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