Miele Km 5975 Induction Stovetop Hob Capacitors To Resolve Error Fe32 And Other Errors Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          2 hours - 1 week

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Capacitors exchange to resolve error FE32 and other errors
16 steps

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Introduction

They use components from manufacturer EGO (E.G.O.) that are very similar.

And the capacitor problem may be quite usual for 10y old appliances.

Check the attached manuals. Especially the Technical Document is very hard to find, and is very useful.

It will definitely work for following Miele products:

Ceramic hobs with induction

KM 5941 / 5942 / 5943

KM 5945 / 5946 / 5947

KM 5951 / 5952 / 5953

KM 5955 / 5956 / 5957

KM 5975 / 5985 / 5986 / 5944 / 5948 / 5954 / 5958

What you need

Step 1

              Miele error code FE 32 and other codes

There is number of induction hobs from Miele and other manufacturers this repair is relevant to, such as AEG, Siemens and others. Few examples are on the pictures.
The reason is that they use components from manufacturer EGO or E.G.O.
I was repairing due to Miele error code FE32, but it seems the same issue can cause other errors: FE33, FE 34, FE 35, FE 36. Check the PDF documents in attachment. There is a list of error codes and also a description of a lot of functions you may have forgotten your cooktop has.
Error code is displayed in the red circle (FE) and yellow circle (32,33,…)
Blue rectangles shoe Miele control designs that definitely represent the same “guts”, so the same fix for the same error.

There is number of induction hobs from Miele and other manufacturers this repair is relevant to, such as AEG, Siemens and others. Few examples are on the pictures.

The reason is that they use components from manufacturer EGO or E.G.O.

I was repairing due to Miele error code FE32, but it seems the same issue can cause other errors: FE33, FE 34, FE 35, FE 36. Check the PDF documents in attachment. There is a list of error codes and also a description of a lot of functions you may have forgotten your cooktop has.

Error code is displayed in the red circle (FE) and yellow circle (32,33,…)

Blue rectangles shoe Miele control designs that definitely represent the same “guts”, so the same fix for the same error.

1024

Step 2

              Get access to bottom of your stovetop, and find out how it is wired in.

Sorry for the bad picture, it is a grab from video. I have removed the drawers, and then I have used my phone camera to see how it is connected.
Mine stove is connected via 3 phases wiring, yours can be 1 phase or 2 phases.
If the stovetop is installed as per instructions from Miele, there should not have been glue/silicone/etc. used, so you just lift it up by pressing is from bellow.
This is the moment when you need to DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY via going to TURN OF THE ELECTRIC BREAKER!
I say it again: TURN OF THE ELECTRIC POWER. It can otherwise kill you.
Did you turn off the power?

Sorry for the bad picture, it is a grab from video. I have removed the drawers, and then I have used my phone camera to see how it is connected.

Mine stove is connected via 3 phases wiring, yours can be 1 phase or 2 phases.

If the stovetop is installed as per instructions from Miele, there should not have been glue/silicone/etc. used, so you just lift it up by pressing is from bellow.

This is the moment when you need to DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY via going to TURN OF THE ELECTRIC BREAKER!

I say it again: TURN OF THE ELECTRIC POWER. It can otherwise kill you.

Did you turn off the power?

Step 3

              TURN OFF POWER!

Turn Off Power before continuing!

Turn Off Power before continuing!

Step 4

              Get the stovetop out

By pushing from inside of the cupboard lift the stovetop.
It make sense to be careful, as it is glass, so I have used my dog’s blanket :-)

By pushing from inside of the cupboard lift the stovetop.

It make sense to be careful, as it is glass, so I have used my dog’s blanket :-)

Step 5

              Disconnect the outside power wires

Always start with the 3 hot wires (brown, black, gray) - red rectangles.
Then blue - cold - wire - yellow rectangle.
Always LAST the grounding wire - yellow and green - green rectangle.

Always start with the 3 hot wires (brown, black, gray) - red rectangles.

Then blue - cold - wire - yellow rectangle.

Always LAST the grounding wire - yellow and green - green rectangle.

Step 6

              Open the main metal cover (bottom of the stovetop).

Remove all the screws. In my case it was 16x Torx 20, but yours can be different number and different screw.
Then you can lift the metal cover to get access to the internal power lines.

Remove all the screws. In my case it was 16x Torx 20, but yours can be different number and different screw.

Then you can lift the metal cover to get access to the internal power lines.

Step 7

              Disconnect the internal power connectors

In my case inside are visible 2 separate modules under the plastic covers - red and green square.
Orange circle marks grounding wires - disconnect them.
Yellow circle is “phase” wire for “green” box connected to wire 1 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.
Blue circle is “phase” wire for “red” box connected to wire 2 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.
Purple circle is “cold” wire for both “green” and “red” box connected to wire 4 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.
Green circle is “ground” wire for both “green” and “red” box and also for the outside metal cover connected to wire 5 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.
Please note - these wires are really short, and for me it was the biggest challenge to connect them back when assembling it. I may not have stretched them enough when I have manipulated with the “green” and “red” plastic boxes internals. Make sure you make them as straight and long stretching out of these boxes when assembling them.

In my case inside are visible 2 separate modules under the plastic covers - red and green square.

Orange circle marks grounding wires - disconnect them.

Yellow circle is “phase” wire for “green” box connected to wire 1 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.

Blue circle is “phase” wire for “red” box connected to wire 2 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.

Purple circle is “cold” wire for both “green” and “red” box connected to wire 4 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.

Green circle is “ground” wire for both “green” and “red” box and also for the outside metal cover connected to wire 5 as seen on the outside connector box - disconnect it.

Please note - these wires are really short, and for me it was the biggest challenge to connect them back when assembling it. I may not have stretched them enough when I have manipulated with the “green” and “red” plastic boxes internals. Make sure you make them as straight and long stretching out of these boxes when assembling them.

Step 8

              Remove the screws to get access to the electronics.

I have not made the picture of the full view of the plastic boxes (red and green in previous step), so you need to believe me that they are there :-)
The screws are from the other side, so see next step.

I have not made the picture of the full view of the plastic boxes (red and green in previous step), so you need to believe me that they are there :-)

The screws are from the other side, so see next step.

Step 9

              Access electronics II

The red box has 6 screws - red circles
One of the screws is invisibly hidden under the green electronic board (orange circle), so you have to remove that board. It is easy, it is just on 4 plastic “spacers” that are easy to push out.
Green box has screws in the green circles, so you can either remove both boxes at this moment, or do it one by one as I did.
As you can see, the “burners” have fallen down. They are not anyhow fixed to the metal sheet. You will have to put them back when assembling. I will explain it later.
Note 2 “burners” in the blue rectangle. They are the same size, so I have made a mistake when assembling, and have swapped their position, so I had to open it again to fix it. Dont make the same mistake.

The red box has 6 screws - red circles

One of the screws is invisibly hidden under the green electronic board (orange circle), so you have to remove that board. It is easy, it is just on 4 plastic “spacers” that are easy to push out.

Green box has screws in the green circles, so you can either remove both boxes at this moment, or do it one by one as I did.

As you can see, the “burners” have fallen down. They are not anyhow fixed to the metal sheet. You will have to put them back when assembling. I will explain it later.

Note 2 “burners” in the blue rectangle. They are the same size, so I have made a mistake when assembling, and have swapped their position, so I had to open it again to fix it. Dont make the same mistake.

Step 10

              Finally the first box accessible - slave box

To lift the box you have to disconnect “control wire” - red circles with the connected line.
To remove the “power board” - the white board we need to fix, you have to remove the fan wire (yellow), power wire (purple) and another wire (green).
Then you can remove the white board by releasing the tabs (blue rectangles).

To lift the box you have to disconnect “control wire” - red circles with the connected line.

To remove the “power board” - the white board we need to fix, you have to remove the fan wire (yellow), power wire (purple) and another wire (green).

Then you can remove the white board by releasing the tabs (blue rectangles).

Step 11

              Identify, solder out and solder in replacement capacitors

These are the 2 capacitors that are damaged (10 years of usage is enough), and need to be replaced.

they are 470uF/25v, 10mm diameter, 16mm eight.

I dont have any pictures from the soldering/exchange, but I am sure you can figure that out.

You can clearly see that the top is not flat = they are damaged.

You can see the board is manufactured by E.G.O. (EGO), and the number is 75.470.034. It is obvious from the research that the main board is 75.470, the last 3 digits are dependent on the specific product, OEM manufacturer, …

Step 12

              Beware of short power wires

Red rectangle show the short power wires I have mentioned few times, yellow rectangle is the ground wire. When you will screw the box back, make sure you stretch them as straight and as long as possible. You will do yourself a favor on reconnecting the internal power connector.

Red rectangle show the short power wires I have mentioned few times, yellow rectangle is the ground wire. When you will screw the box back, make sure you stretch them as straight and as long as possible. You will do yourself a favor on reconnecting the internal power connector.

Step 13

              Repeat the same for the "master" box

These 2 boxes are not the same, even they have the same issue - capacitors to be replaced (red circle).
But the “master” box (name I have created) has 2 communication connectors (green circle).
This has caused an issue for me, as I have not noticed the difference at first, and I did not know which cable belongs to which connector.
Red connector (red rectangle) is for the “black and white 2 wire connector (red circle - not well visible in the back on the picture.
Green connector is for the 4 black wires connector in green circle.
This 4 black wires wire (green circle) goes to the “master control electronics” on the other side of the panel.

These 2 boxes are not the same, even they have the same issue - capacitors to be replaced (red circle).

But the “master” box (name I have created) has 2 communication connectors (green circle).

This has caused an issue for me, as I have not noticed the difference at first, and I did not know which cable belongs to which connector.

Red connector (red rectangle) is for the “black and white 2 wire connector (red circle - not well visible in the back on the picture.

Green connector is for the 4 black wires connector in green circle.

This 4 black wires wire (green circle) goes to the “master control electronics” on the other side of the panel.

Step 14

              Organize the other side

You have exchanged 4x capacitor in the “master” and slave” boxes on the other side, made sure the power wires stick out as far as possible, and screw these boxes back on.
Red circle shows where the 4 black wires get on the other side and where it connects to the master control board. Green circles show the 2 burners that are the same size, and I have swapped their places as mentioned before. So dont make the same mistake.
Red rectangle show the connector with 4 black wires from the previous step.
Yellow rectangle is the black and white wire that connects the master and slave boxes.

You have exchanged 4x capacitor in the “master” and slave” boxes on the other side, made sure the power wires stick out as far as possible, and screw these boxes back on.

Red circle shows where the 4 black wires get on the other side and where it connects to the master control board. Green circles show the 2 burners that are the same size, and I have swapped their places as mentioned before. So dont make the same mistake.

Red rectangle show the connector with 4 black wires from the previous step.

Yellow rectangle is the black and white wire that connects the master and slave boxes.

Step 15

              Put on the glass top

For this step I dont have a good picture, so I have used picture from disassembly, when everything has fallen apart, and I was wandering how I will put it together.
So after some trials I found it as best to place the board flat, put on the burners, arrange the wires (i had to use some tape to fix them to good positions. I dont understand how they do it without the tape on the original assembly line).
Then put on it the glass top, fit it on. The fitting was easier than I was afraid, as on my glass is aluminium frame that allows precise fit.
Holding this “sandwich” together (glass top and the rest of metal sheet with the plastic boxes with electronics) I have turned it upside down. That was a bit tricky, as the size is quite big, it is quite heavy, and I had to press these parts together so the burners dont slide out).
With the glass as the bottom layer and electronics as the upper layer I have put on the back metal cover.
Then the tricky part was to connect the internal power wires to the connector. Maybe you will do better.
Final assembly step was to put back these 16 screws.
And connect again the external wires

For this step I dont have a good picture, so I have used picture from disassembly, when everything has fallen apart, and I was wandering how I will put it together.

So after some trials I found it as best to place the board flat, put on the burners, arrange the wires (i had to use some tape to fix them to good positions. I dont understand how they do it without the tape on the original assembly line).

Then put on it the glass top, fit it on. The fitting was easier than I was afraid, as on my glass is aluminium frame that allows precise fit.

Holding this “sandwich” together (glass top and the rest of metal sheet with the plastic boxes with electronics) I have turned it upside down. That was a bit tricky, as the size is quite big, it is quite heavy, and I had to press these parts together so the burners dont slide out).

With the glass as the bottom layer and electronics as the upper layer I have put on the back metal cover.

Then the tricky part was to connect the internal power wires to the connector. Maybe you will do better.

Final assembly step was to put back these 16 screws.

And connect again the external wires

Step 16

              Final return, power on!

After connecting the power wires, you return the stovetop back to its place.
Remember, no glue, no silicon, …
And it makes sense to clean both the stove top edges and the work desk fro the dirt, fat, … (I did it at the very beginning actually)
Turn on the power, turn on the stove and voila! … it should work, not FE32 error, at least $500 saved for service and few thousands for new stovetop.
(if you were not careful as I was not, you may have to disassemble again to swap the burners. I hope I have made it clear to be careful with that, and that you were careful, so you will save some time).
The total cost will be $5 for the 4 capacitors, $20 for the soldering set if you did not have one, and few $ for the screwdrivers if you did not have them). So basically almost free.
Happiness from the success - priceless :-)
I am not sure if the “now continue backwards” is added automatically, but you are done already :-) Enjoy!

After connecting the power wires, you return the stovetop back to its place.

Remember, no glue, no silicon, …

And it makes sense to clean both the stove top edges and the work desk fro the dirt, fat, … (I did it at the very beginning actually)

Turn on the power, turn on the stove and voila! … it should work, not FE32 error, at least $500 saved for service and few thousands for new stovetop.

(if you were not careful as I was not, you may have to disassemble again to swap the burners. I hope I have made it clear to be careful with that, and that you were careful, so you will save some time).

The total cost will be $5 for the 4 capacitors, $20 for the soldering set if you did not have one, and few $ for the screwdrivers if you did not have them). So basically almost free.

Happiness from the success - priceless :-)

I am not sure if the “now continue backwards” is added automatically, but you are done already :-) Enjoy!

You should be done and everything should be working now.

My learnings:

I found it difficult to reconnect the internal power wires, as they are very short, and there is little room. I may have also not stretched them fully inside when I was closing the plastic covers of the electronic.

I also made a mistake by swapping positions of two of the “burners” as they are the same size, so the buttons were controlling different. So I had to open it again and place them to the correct position. Beware not to make the same mistake.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      4 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents

Microsoft Word - KM_5773_TI.doc
PDF - 611.38 kb
View
ManualsLib - Makes it easy to find manuals online!
PDF - 1.60 mb
View

Microsoft Word - KM_5773_TI.doc

PDF - 611.38 kb

ManualsLib - Makes it easy to find manuals online!

PDF - 1.60 mb

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                    Tomas Petru

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Introduction

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