Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

7

Time Required

                          30 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

1

  • Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 and 5000 Disassembly
  • 7 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse 6000 and 5000 Disassembly
  • Remove the battery door and use a #8 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the center screw. Pry the cover of the mouse starting from the back and lifting it up toward the wheel.

Remove the battery door and use a #8 Torx Tamper Proof Bit to remove the center screw. Pry the cover of the mouse starting from the back and lifting it up toward the wheel.

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Step 2

  • Remove the screw from the cover with a #1 Phillips. Unclip the two fins from the plate by lifting up on each gently. Remove the silver plate by prying the cover striaght up.

Remove the screw from the cover with a #1 Phillips. Unclip the two fins from the plate by lifting up on each gently. Remove the silver plate by prying the cover striaght up.

Step 3

  • Gently lift up on the left shroud until it detaches. You can also detach the two side buttons. They are compression fit. Pry them each gently out of the hinge with a flat blade.

Gently lift up on the left shroud until it detaches. You can also detach the two side buttons. They are compression fit. Pry them each gently out of the hinge with a flat blade.

Step 4

  • Be Extremely Careful There is a small spring between the housing and the base plate of the mouse. The ribbon cable that attachs the mouse wheel is tough to remove. It is compression fit without tabs. I needed to use a small flat blade screw driver to pry it out of the socket. The mouse wheel housing that clicks to the left and right is compression fitted on the bottom only. You can separate it from the other housing by lifting up on the bottom “hinge”. The bottom housing is again a compression fit hinge attaching it to the base plate with spring.

Be Extremely Careful There is a small spring between the housing and the base plate of the mouse. The ribbon cable that attachs the mouse wheel is tough to remove. It is compression fit without tabs. I needed to use a small flat blade screw driver to pry it out of the socket. The mouse wheel housing that clicks to the left and right is compression fitted on the bottom only. You can separate it from the other housing by lifting up on the bottom “hinge”. The bottom housing is again a compression fit hinge attaching it to the base plate with spring.

Step 5

  • The mouse wheel assembly comes apart easily.

The mouse wheel assembly comes apart easily.

Step 6

  • The circuit board is all one piece that lifts straight out. As you lift out the circuit board push the battery terminals so they clear the base plate. The reset pin will come loose after the circuit board is removed.

The circuit board is all one piece that lifts straight out. As you lift out the circuit board push the battery terminals so they clear the base plate. The reset pin will come loose after the circuit board is removed.

Step 7

  • Cleaning Time! Now all the plastic parts are separated you can clean them. I used a crest spin brush with simple green. Spray the large parts and then brush and rinse in the sink. For the smaller parts spray and brush over a container and then rinse in water in another container. Let all the parts air dry and use compressed air for the small parts before reassembling.

Cleaning Time! Now all the plastic parts are separated you can clean them. I used a crest spin brush with simple green. Spray the large parts and then brush and rinse in the sink. For the smaller parts spray and brush over a container and then rinse in water in another container. Let all the parts air dry and use compressed air for the small parts before reassembling.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    DoesGoodJob Tech

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mlm5000 - Nov 6, 2012

Reply

Very thorough, thanks, but would like to offer a simple alternative that may apply. After several years, my MLM 5000 scroll wheel became very difficult to turn; thought I’d have to disassemble and clean it. Actually, the rubbery plastic coating on the wheel was shredding and rubbing against the outer casing, so I pried up a section of the coating with a small screwdriver, cut through its width with cuticle scissors, and peeled/rolled it off the wheel completely. The scroll wheel is now PERFECTLY smooth – better than it ever was or than ANY other mouse I ever tried. Really love the feel of it now. And without the extra padding, my index finger now rests 1 or 2 mm lower, which I find a little more comfortable. The only drawback is with the slightly reduced height, it’s very minimally more difficult to scroll horizontally (tilt scroll). The resistance is unchanged, but there’s that much less surface to push against horizontally. Vertical scrolling (rolling) is great now.

Mat Kramer - Feb 13, 2015

Great advice from @mlm5000. Just rip off the rubber wheel cover!

Doug Webste - Mar 9, 2017

Don’t do this!! My wheel does not work at all now!

This looks nothing like my Microsoft 5000 mouse.

mattadata - Oct 7, 2013

Reply

Thanks. Very helpful. For me, the first screw is a T9 Torx, not T8.