Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
7
Time Required
Suggest a time??
Sections
2
- Casing
- 4 steps
- Battery
- 3 steps
Flags
1
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Casing
- Warm up an iOpener following the instructions found in the iOpener guide.
- Place the warm iOpener on top of the edges of the screen. This heat will weaken the strength of the adhesive between the display and body.
Warm up an iOpener following the instructions found in the iOpener guide.
Place the warm iOpener on top of the edges of the screen. This heat will weaken the strength of the adhesive between the display and body.
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Step 2
- Use iFixit opening picks to wedge under the edge of the screen at the speaker port.
- This may take significant force. A fingernail might work better for the initial lift
- If you push straight down near the edge you will go through the speaker mesh and possibly end up damaging your speaker; try to push the pick in at a shallow angle.
Use iFixit opening picks to wedge under the edge of the screen at the speaker port.
This may take significant force. A fingernail might work better for the initial lift
If you push straight down near the edge you will go through the speaker mesh and possibly end up damaging your speaker; try to push the pick in at a shallow angle.
Step 3
- Carefully try to work your way around the device using the picks, reapplications of the heated iOpener, and luck.
- If you break the glass on one side you might want to try again starting from the other side so that you have a clean, unbroken, edge on that side.
- While the glass on this display is not particularly sharp when broken, it is still broken glass and you should be careful with it.
Carefully try to work your way around the device using the picks, reapplications of the heated iOpener, and luck.
If you break the glass on one side you might want to try again starting from the other side so that you have a clean, unbroken, edge on that side.
While the glass on this display is not particularly sharp when broken, it is still broken glass and you should be careful with it.
Step 4
- Flip the display over so that parts underneath it are easily accessible.
- Do not pull out the display as it is still attached to the motherboard.
- If you are replacing the display, or want it out of the way, continue with the display replacement guide steps.
Flip the display over so that parts underneath it are easily accessible.
Do not pull out the display as it is still attached to the motherboard.
If you are replacing the display, or want it out of the way, continue with the display replacement guide steps.
Step 5
Battery
- Now that you’ve gotten the casing off of the Surface 3, you can start removing the battery pack.
Now that you’ve gotten the casing off of the Surface 3, you can start removing the battery pack.
Step 6
- Slide the iFixit plastic cards under the compartments of the battery pack.
- Slide the card around to undo the adhesive under the battery pack
Slide the iFixit plastic cards under the compartments of the battery pack.
Slide the card around to undo the adhesive under the battery pack
Step 7
- Carefully slide the battery’s flat power and data connector from its insert.
- You may now switch out the battery pack for a new one.
Carefully slide the battery’s flat power and data connector from its insert.
You may now switch out the battery pack for a new one.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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16 other people completed this guide.
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with 3 other contributors
Johann Cayaban
Member since: 10/01/2015
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Team
Cal Poly, Team 5-12, Maness Fall 2015
Member of Cal Poly, Team 5-12, Maness Fall 2015
CPSU-MANESS-F15S5G12
4 Members
18 Guides authored
John Salazar - Dec 8, 2018
Reply
I followed these instructions without a hitch but now that I’m trying to put the new battery in I can’t slide the connector for the new battery back in. It seems like the teeth that are supposed to grab the connector for the battery are too tight so I can’t side the director for the battery in. Do you have any advise for this issue that I’m having?
Marno Junta - Aug 8, 2019
Recently had to complete this repair for a customer. Was in the same boat, couldn’t figure out how to plug the battery back in. And wasn’t paying attention to how the connection was originally, when i pulled the battery. The connector has to slide UNDER the teeth, not above. Meaning loosen the board screws and lift the board slightly, then slide the battery connector in. hopefully this helps others that a stuck with this issue, and iFixit will update this guide.
philbu - Aug 13, 2019
Reply
Great pictures and tools shown.
Elias Aminger - Jan 21, 2020
Reply
Hab’s versucht und es hat leider nicht mal in Ansätzen geklappt. Genau wie beschrieben hab ich den iOpener 30 Sekunden lang in der Mikrowelle erhitzt und dann auf die rechte Seite des Geräts gelegt. Nach ein paar Minuten war ich der Meinung es kann losgehen und hab wie beschrieben an der Einbuchtung des Lautsprechers das Glas leicht angehoben und mit dem Plektrum in flachem Winkel angesetzt. Bevor ich noch groß Kraft anwenden konnte hatte ich schon den Sprung und ein ordentliches Stück Glas ist mir weggesprungen. Zunächst dachte ich dass es halb so schlimm sei, denn es hat “nur” den schwarzen Rand erwischt, nicht jedoch das Tochscreen selbst. Naja nach kurzer Zeit ist der Riss gewandert und nachdem die Tochfunktion nicht mehr ging, kamen danach die bunten Streifen…. 300€ kostet der Displaytausch und noch mal 90€ der Akku tausch. Hätte ich gewusst wie unfassbar leicht das Glas springt, hätte ich sofort den Akkutausch machen lassen und nicht selbst Hand angelegt -.-
Frank Ho - Apr 12, 2020
Reply
Anyone know where to find a photo of the motherboard?
