Metabo Sander Sre 329 Sr E 326 327 328 Dampers Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Easy

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Time Required

                          2 hours

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Rubber dampners
8 steps

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Introduction

In particular when you are touching something sideways with the sanding plate. Metabo unfortunately does not supply the parts anymore, but for most household use, the sander will still have a lot of life in it.

So I stripped, it, made the part by hand, not so hard…you can get something from a rubber shop, or if you have access to very large o-rings, use one of those.

Looks like same partnumber for various machines. 34409178 (0) marked with extra 0 on some websites (not longer in stock).

What you need

Step 1

              Start disassembly

Remove bottom plate with Tubular socket wrench.
Remove center screw - torx..To stop it from turning, you can carefully jam a flat screwdriver into the fan on the bottom side. Careful, do not damage anything inside.
Note for assembly, needs locktight so it does not vibrate loose.

Remove bottom plate with Tubular socket wrench.

Remove center screw - torx..To stop it from turning, you can carefully jam a flat screwdriver into the fan on the bottom side. Careful, do not damage anything inside.

Note for assembly, needs locktight so it does not vibrate loose.

1024

Step 2

              Body stripping

Remove top cap of sander. Carefully loosen motor brushes, they pop out by hand. Inspect for excessive wear (worn to coming close to spring).
During assembly, if the carbon contact block/brush itself has popped out at any time, when refitting, make sure the curvature of the brush fits the rotor nicely to avoid excessive wear.
When assembling, make sure the brushes are out, or they will block the rotor from moving up into the bearing housing.
Remove the body by loosening the 4 torx screws in the base and carefully lifting the body off.
From now on you need to be careful and avoid damage to any of the wiring or contacts. So in the next phase, where you have to get rough, be careful!!

Remove top cap of sander. Carefully loosen motor brushes, they pop out by hand. Inspect for excessive wear (worn to coming close to spring).

During assembly, if the carbon contact block/brush itself has popped out at any time, when refitting, make sure the curvature of the brush fits the rotor nicely to avoid excessive wear.

When assembling, make sure the brushes are out, or they will block the rotor from moving up into the bearing housing.

Remove the body by loosening the 4 torx screws in the base and carefully lifting the body off.

From now on you need to be careful and avoid damage to any of the wiring or contacts. So in the next phase, where you have to get rough, be careful!!

Step 3

              The hard part

You now have to separate the bottom plate from the body, but only enough to replace the dampers.
Remember to keep all hard objects away from the rotor, damaging the wiring will make this tool a total loss.
First, I wedged some screwdrivers in between the two alu parts, the body and the sander plate. Little progress.
Then, I asked for an extra pair of hands and held the sanding plate by hand and someone else just smacked the hell out of the shaft, using a 8/9 mm pipe socket.
With thanks to my lovely assistant, Nikki.
IF you use a vice or similar, be careful to not break the plates. Put some wood in between??
I used something pipe shaped, because I did not want to damage the threads on the center bolt, or hit on the bolt, and you need to avoid hitting the outer ring of the bearing, which is likely very tight. The pics somewhere in this guide should give some indication of where/what.
All you need is 1.5 cm, then you can turn the bottom plate, and it will expose the dampers.

You now have to separate the bottom plate from the body, but only enough to replace the dampers.

Remember to keep all hard objects away from the rotor, damaging the wiring will make this tool a total loss.

First, I wedged some screwdrivers in between the two alu parts, the body and the sander plate. Little progress.

Then, I asked for an extra pair of hands and held the sanding plate by hand and someone else just smacked the hell out of the shaft, using a 8/9 mm pipe socket.

With thanks to my lovely assistant, Nikki.

IF you use a vice or similar, be careful to not break the plates. Put some wood in between??

I used something pipe shaped, because I did not want to damage the threads on the center bolt, or hit on the bolt, and you need to avoid hitting the outer ring of the bearing, which is likely very tight. The pics somewhere in this guide should give some indication of where/what.

All you need is 1.5 cm, then you can turn the bottom plate, and it will expose the dampers.

Step 4

              Out pop the little dampers

Any remains of the dampers will be visible now, including 4 little caps.
Thankfully, 1 was still in tact so I could measure it up. 25 mm x 10.5 mm with groove on each side.
Looks like the groove is to give a way out for sawdust and other muck.
Clean the 8 holes (both plates) and the small caps, note the groove, that seems to fit best when pointing to the sides of the sander when assembling.
Was pretty caked in some. Think it may have had some grease. So I assembled with some grease also.

Any remains of the dampers will be visible now, including 4 little caps.

Thankfully, 1 was still in tact so I could measure it up. 25 mm x 10.5 mm with groove on each side.

Looks like the groove is to give a way out for sawdust and other muck.

Clean the 8 holes (both plates) and the small caps, note the groove, that seems to fit best when pointing to the sides of the sander when assembling.

Was pretty caked in some. Think it may have had some grease. So I assembled with some grease also.

Step 5

              The creative part - making 4 rubber dampers

As mentioned the 34409178 (0) part of 4 tiny rubber nobbies are no longer available. And I checked many places. Here is a picture of what the original looks like.
So I thought of making them from door stoppers, which seemed the same consistency. but seemed hard to get them nice.
The originals were pretty hard rubber, so don’t be shy to use 70 Shore or higher. Anything you cannot push your nail in very easily.
One of the online rubber shops here kindly provides samples of rubber profiles, and had the size 11 mm diameter. 70 Shore hardness. EPDM = typical industrial rubber.
I needed 10 cm, and they sent me a free sample of ….9.5 cm. Undeterred, I went to work, to create the grooves.

As mentioned the 34409178 (0) part of 4 tiny rubber nobbies are no longer available. And I checked many places. Here is a picture of what the original looks like.

So I thought of making them from door stoppers, which seemed the same consistency. but seemed hard to get them nice.

The originals were pretty hard rubber, so don’t be shy to use 70 Shore or higher. Anything you cannot push your nail in very easily.

One of the online rubber shops here kindly provides samples of rubber profiles, and had the size 11 mm diameter. 70 Shore hardness. EPDM = typical industrial rubber.

I needed 10 cm, and they sent me a free sample of ….9.5 cm. Undeterred, I went to work, to create the grooves.

Step 6

              A yucky job

I used a combination of techniques: In vice between wood and used a triangular file to cut a small groove. Tiny Router in hand drill and carefully creating a little groove. Then cleanup by hand again on file in the vice.
In vice between wood and used a triangular file to cut a small groove.
Tiny Router (head < 1.5 mm) in hand drill and carefully creating a little groove.
Then cleanup by hand again on file in the vice.
This was a tricky job with the handtools available, and as soon as I thought I could pretend there was some kind of decent groove on both sides, I quit this task.
Cut to size. 9.5 cm /4….

I used a combination of techniques: In vice between wood and used a triangular file to cut a small groove. Tiny Router in hand drill and carefully creating a little groove. Then cleanup by hand again on file in the vice.

In vice between wood and used a triangular file to cut a small groove.

Tiny Router (head < 1.5 mm) in hand drill and carefully creating a little groove.

Then cleanup by hand again on file in the vice.

This was a tricky job with the handtools available, and as soon as I thought I could pretend there was some kind of decent groove on both sides, I quit this task.

Cut to size. 9.5 cm /4….

Step 7

              Assembly

grease, something compatible with rubber. I used silicone grease. This also helps keeping them in place when beating it back together in the next steps.
Dampers’ groove go into the little slot.
Hold upside down, base plate one quarter turn from body. Put the 4 dampner assemblies in. Caps groove seem to fit best when it points to the long sides of the sander.
The flat side should fit below the little standing ledge. Some did not go down into the body in certain positions.
Keep holding upside down, align. Place on piece of wood. Put piece of wood on top center. Smack it. Check the dampers are still in place. Align, repeat till bearing is flush with shaft again. Sander plate should be free from body.
Smack with pieces of wood. Check every hit to see if they do not jump out.

grease, something compatible with rubber. I used silicone grease. This also helps keeping them in place when beating it back together in the next steps.

Dampers’ groove go into the little slot.

Hold upside down, base plate one quarter turn from body. Put the 4 dampner assemblies in. Caps groove seem to fit best when it points to the long sides of the sander.

The flat side should fit below the little standing ledge. Some did not go down into the body in certain positions.

Keep holding upside down, align. Place on piece of wood. Put piece of wood on top center. Smack it. Check the dampers are still in place. Align, repeat till bearing is flush with shaft again. Sander plate should be free from body.

Smack with pieces of wood. Check every hit to see if they do not jump out.

Step 8

Once you see the body and sander plate are back together, sander plate should not be touching, and bearing more or less flush. Sanity check by turning it around a little.
Re-assembe in reverse order, starting with the bottoms bearing shaft screw.
Add some silicone lube spray to nylon sandpaper locking levers. Move around a little.
Clean excess oil/grease off, check for (electric) safety issues.
Plug in
Test.
Celebrate, you saved the planet, saved some money, achieved something fun and deserve a beer.

Once you see the body and sander plate are back together, sander plate should not be touching, and bearing more or less flush. Sanity check by turning it around a little.

Re-assembe in reverse order, starting with the bottoms bearing shaft screw.

Add some silicone lube spray to nylon sandpaper locking levers. Move around a little.

Clean excess oil/grease off, check for (electric) safety issues.

Plug in

Test.

Celebrate, you saved the planet, saved some money, achieved something fun and deserve a beer.

Fairly easy to strip, and put new dampners in, but you need to make them yourself somehow.

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                    Mike B

Member since: 08/31/2014

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Michael Williamson - Oct 14, 2020

Thanks for the great explanation for repair, l used Albator’s suggestion with the replacement rubber inserts. they are still possible to buy online. Michael W

Member-Contributed Guide#

Introduction#

What you need#

Member-Contributed Guide

Introduction

What you need