Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
54
Time Required
1 - 2 hours
Sections
4
- Lower Case
- 6 steps
- Battery Connector
- 10 steps
- Logic Board Removal
- 35 steps
- Heat Sink
- 3 steps
Flags
1
In Progress
This guide is a work in progress. Reload periodically to see the latest changes!
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Introduction
Replacing the heat sink requires you to remove the entire logic board.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
You will need replacement thermal paste to complete this repair.
What you need
Step 1
Unfasten the lower case
- Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
- Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
- Four 9.1 mm screws
- Four 5 mm screws
- Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
Four 9.1 mm screws
Four 5 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.
1024
Step 2
Unclip the lower case
- Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
- Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.
Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.
Step 3
Release the rear cover's right clips
- Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
- Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
- This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
Step 4
Release the rear cover's left clips
- Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
Step 5
- Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
- Pull first at one corner, then the other.
- Pull to the side—not up.
- This may require a lot of force.
Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This may require a lot of force.
Step 6
Remove the lower case
- Remove the lower case.
- To reinstall the lower case:
- Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
- When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
Step 7
Unfasten the trackpad cable bracket
- Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm-long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm-long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.
Step 8
Remove the trackpad cable bracket
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.
Step 9
Disconnect the trackpad cable
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable’s press connector from the logic board.
- To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable’s press connector from the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 10
Reposition the trackpad cable
- The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
- Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.
The trackpad cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.
Step 11
Disconnect the battery board
- Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
Step 12
- Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
Step 13
- The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
- Insert blunt-nosed tweezers between the battery board data cable and the logic board.
- Slide the tweezers underneath the cable to separate the adhesive.
- Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
The battery board data cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Insert blunt-nosed tweezers between the battery board data cable and the logic board.
Slide the tweezers underneath the cable to separate the adhesive.
Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 14
Reposition the battery board cable
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the battery board data cable away from the device.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the battery board data cable away from the device.
Step 15
Unfasten the battery connector
- Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.9 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
Step 16
Disconnect the battery connector
- Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
- Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
Step 17
Unfasten the antenna bar's connector bracket
- Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.
Step 18
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar’s coaxial cables.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar’s coaxial cables.
Step 19
Disconnect the antenna bar
- Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar’s coaxial cable.
- Repeat for the two other cables.
- During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar’s coaxial cable.
Repeat for the two other cables.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Step 20
Unfasten the display cable covers
- Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the display cable covers.
Step 21
Remove the display cable covers
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two display cable covers from the logic board.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two display cable covers from the logic board.
Step 22
Disconnect the display cables
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most display cable press connectors secured to the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most display cable press connectors secured to the logic board.
Step 23
- Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector.
Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector.
Step 24
- Peel back any tape covering the microphone cable connector.
Peel back any tape covering the microphone cable connector.
Step 25
- Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.
Step 26
- Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 27
Unfasten the right-side cable covers
- Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:
- Nine 2.1 mm screws
- One 2 mm screw
- One 3.5 mm screw
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:
Nine 2.1 mm screws
One 2 mm screw
One 3.5 mm screw
Step 28
Remove the right cable covers
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.
Step 29
Disconnect the right speaker
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right speaker’s press connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right speaker’s press connector.
Step 30
Disconnect the headphone jack
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack’s press connector.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack’s press connector.
Step 31
Disconnect the right USB-C ports
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports’ two press connectors.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports’ two press connectors.
Step 32
Disconnect the MagSafe port
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port’s press connector.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port’s press connector.
Step 33
Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor’s press connector.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor’s press connector.
Step 34
Unfasten the left cable covers
- Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:
- Four 2.1 mm screws
- One 2 mm screw
- One 3.6 mm screw
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:
Four 2.1 mm screws
One 3.6 mm screw
Step 35
Remove the left cable covers
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the three left cable covers.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the three left cable covers.
Step 36
Disconnect the left speaker
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left speaker’s press connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left speaker’s press connector.
Step 37
Disconnect the left USB-C port
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port’s press connector.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port’s press connector.
Step 38
Disconnect the Touch ID sensor
- Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor’s press connector.
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor’s press connector.
Step 39
Disconnect the keyboard
- Peel back any tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight cable connectors.
Peel back any tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight cable connectors.
Step 40
- Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the two ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the two ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.
Step 41
- Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.
Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.
Step 42
Disconnect the fans
- Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.
Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.
Step 43
- Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.
Step 44
- Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 45
Reposition the right fan cable
- The right fan cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
- Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.
- The fan cables are incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending them with tools.
The right fan cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.
The fan cables are incredibly delicate and prone to tearing; use caution when bending them with tools.
Step 46
- Repeat the previous disconnection and reposition procedure for the left fan cable.
Repeat the previous disconnection and reposition procedure for the left fan cable.
Step 47
Unfasten the logic board
- Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:
- Six 3.8 mm screws
- Four 4.6 mm screws
- Use a 4 mm Hex driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the logic board to the frame.
- Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board and frame.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the logic board to the frame:
Six 3.8 mm screws
Four 4.6 mm screws
Use a 4 mm Hex driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the logic board to the frame.
Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the two 6 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board and frame.
Step 48
Release the logic board's clips
- Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.
- Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.
Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.
Step 49
- Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.
- Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.
Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.
Step 50
Remove the logic board
- Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to completely release the clips.
- If it feels like it’s not coming out, check that all the cables are disconnected.
- Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.
- Remove the logic board.
Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to completely release the clips.
If it feels like it’s not coming out, check that all the cables are disconnected.
Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.
Remove the logic board.
Step 51
Reassembly information
- When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.
- Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won’t sit correctly.
- Make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the fame.
- If you’re having trouble positioning the connectors, use tape to keep them out of the way.
When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.
Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won’t sit correctly.
Make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the fame.
If you’re having trouble positioning the connectors, use tape to keep them out of the way.
Step 52
Unfasten the heat sink
- Turn the logic board upside-down so that the heat sink screws face upwards.
- Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
Turn the logic board upside-down so that the heat sink screws face upwards.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
Step 53
Remove the heat sink brackets
- Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the heat sink brackets.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the heat sink brackets.
Step 54
Remove the heat sink
- Use your fingers to lift the logic board up and off of the heat sink.
- You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the logic board with thermal paste.
- Remove the heat sink.
- A thick, grey thermal compound bridges the gap between the logic board and the heat sink underneath. Whenever the heat sink is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as Artic Silver Thermal Paste, during reassembly.
Use your fingers to lift the logic board up and off of the heat sink.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the logic board with thermal paste.
Remove the heat sink.
A thick, grey thermal compound bridges the gap between the logic board and the heat sink underneath. Whenever the heat sink is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as Artic Silver Thermal Paste, during reassembly.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 16" 2021 Answers community for help.
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Alex Diaz-Kokaisl
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Wilson Williams - Aug 14, 2022
Reply
I respectfully disagree with the difficulty rating of “moderate”. Having to remove the motherboard in any Mac is never a moderate procedure. Perhaps for someone familiar with all those tiny connectors, it’s not overly difficult. But for anyone who hasn’t done such an intricate and complicated task, it’s asking for trouble. One tiny mistake, and you’re screwed!
For me, this is yet another reason not to buy a modern MacBook. The older Retina MacBooks require only a few screws and parts to be removed in order to change the thermal paste. The procedure shown here reminds me of the much older MacBook designs. The ones requiring almost total disassembly for the simple task of replacing thermal paste.
By requiring such a complicated procedure, Apple is virtually guaranteeing a limited lifespan. Your average person would never consider such a complicated task, and I’m certain Apple (and others) charge hundreds of dollars for what should be a simple procedure. This is a textbook example of “planned obsolescence”. 🤬
