Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

33

Time Required

                          50 minutes

Sections

7

  • Lower Case
  • 2 steps
  • Battery Connector
  • 2 steps
  • Battery
  • 3 steps
  • Left Fan
  • 3 steps
  • Logic Board
  • 15 steps
  • Heat Sink
  • 2 steps
  • Logic Board
  • 6 steps

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  • BackMacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2011

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Lower Case
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
  • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • When removing these screws, note how they come out at a slight angle. They must be reinstalled the same way.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

When removing these screws, note how they come out at a slight angle. They must be reinstalled the same way.

1024

Step 2

  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Step 3

              Battery Connector
  • For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary but is recommended as it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not disconnect the battery connector, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.
  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.
  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to “walk” it out of its socket.

For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary but is recommended as it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not disconnect the battery connector, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to “walk” it out of its socket.

Step 4

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Step 5

              Battery
  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Remove the two 7.4 mm Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Step 6

  • Carefully peel the battery warning label rounded end (the one without glue) off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive to reveal an additional Tri-point screw.
  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Y0 Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Do not remove the label from the battery.

Carefully peel the battery warning label rounded end (the one without glue) off the upper case between the battery and the optical drive to reveal an additional Tri-point screw.

Remove the last 7.4 mm Y0 Tri-point screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Do not remove the label from the battery.

Step 7

  • Use the attached plastic pull tab to remove the battery from the upper case.
  • If you’re installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:
  • Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook’s SMC.

Use the attached plastic pull tab to remove the battery from the upper case.

If you’re installing a new battery, you should calibrate it after installation:

Charge it to 100%, and then keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Next, unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook’s SMC.

Step 8

              Left Fan
  • Remove the three 3.4 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.
  • In some models, these T6 Torx screws may be 3.1 mm long.

Remove the three 3.4 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.

In some models, these T6 Torx screws may be 3.1 mm long.

Step 9

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.
  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.
  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.

It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Step 10

  • Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

Lift the left fan out of the upper case.

Step 11

              Logic Board
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 12

  • Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.
  • Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.

Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

Step 13

  • Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Don’t lift upward on the camera cable as you disconnect it. Pulling upward on the cable may damage both the cable and the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

Don’t lift upward on the camera cable as you disconnect it. Pulling upward on the cable may damage both the cable and the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 14

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 15

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 16

  • Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

Step 17

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Pry up from beneath the wires.

Step 18

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board.
  • Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board.

Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

Step 19

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 20

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 21

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 22

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 23

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 24

  • Remove the following nine screws:
  • Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board
  • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board

Remove the following nine screws:

Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board

Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board

Step 25

  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.
  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.
  • Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.

Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

Step 26

              Heat Sink
  • Lay the logic board down on a soft flat surface with the heat sink facing up.
  • Remove the six #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
  • Keep track of the small springs housed under each screw.

Lay the logic board down on a soft flat surface with the heat sink facing up.

Remove the six #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

Keep track of the small springs housed under each screw.

Step 27

  • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.
  • If the heat sink appears to be stuck to the logic board after removing all six screws, it may be helpful to use a spudger to separate the two components.
  • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

If the heat sink appears to be stuck to the logic board after removing all six screws, it may be helpful to use a spudger to separate the two components.

If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Step 28

              Logic Board
  • If necessary, lift the microphone out of its recess in the left speaker housing.

If necessary, lift the microphone out of its recess in the left speaker housing.

Step 29

  • Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.

Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.

Step 30

  • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the left speaker connector.
  • Carefully pull the left speaker wires upward to lift the left speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the left speaker connector.

Carefully pull the left speaker wires upward to lift the left speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 31

  • Carefully pull the microphone cables upward to lift the microphone connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Carefully pull the microphone cables upward to lift the microphone connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 32

  • Pull the DC-In board cables toward the heat sink to disconnect the DC-In board from its socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the cables parallel to the face of the logic board.

Pull the DC-In board cables toward the heat sink to disconnect the DC-In board from its socket on the logic board.

Pull the cables parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 33

  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.
  • These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to “pop” up.
  • After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.
  • Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.
  • Logic board remains.
  • If you need to mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.

These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to “pop” up.

After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.

Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.

Logic board remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Author

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                    Miroslav Djuric

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Sarwan Soomro - Mar 15, 2016

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i need the screws which go on the lid of the back of the mac what are those screws called and how much they are i really really need them my mac screws have all been removed ever since i changed hdd and i need screws for the back lid lower case to upper case screws

Igor Cule - Nov 26, 2016

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Can you please help me and write Number version of ATI 6750M GPU chip. I need to order new and replace it because its failed on my macbook pro late 2011

David Labbe - Dec 9, 2017

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Does anyone ever respond to these post? Why come here for help if no is here to help?

John Stanley - Feb 21, 2018

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Thank you Miroslav! My computer blew up last week and I felt all hope was lost until I found your guide. I used to repair laptops 10 years ago but never worked on a mac. this is exactly what I needed to see to know what to do!

JoeStoner - Feb 25, 2018

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Apple had a replacement service for late 2011 15inch MBPs which cured a mysterious fault which rendered it un-usable. I had mine fixed at a Genius Bar but my mate who also bought one has missed the program and has a completely dead MBP. Am I right in assuming that following your procedure above and using one of your logic boards would fix this?