Macbook Pro 15 Retina Display Late 2013 Upper Case Assembly Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          2 - 4 hours

Sections

Lower Case
2 steps
Battery Connector
2 steps
AirPort/Camera Cable
4 steps
Rubber Hinge Covers
1 step
Display Assembly Screws
1 step
I/O Board Cable
1 step
Right Fan
5 steps
Left Fan
3 steps
SSD
2 steps
I/O Board
2 steps
Logic Board Removal
10 steps
Upper Case Assembly
9 steps

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BackMacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013
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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Lower Case

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
Eight 3.0 mm
Two 2.3 mm

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

Eight 3.0 mm

Two 2.3 mm

1024

Step 2

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
Set the lower case aside.

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

Set the lower case aside.

Step 3

              Battery Connector

Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Step 4

Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn’t accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn’t accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Step 5

              AirPort/Camera Cable

Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.
To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

Step 6

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable’s plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.
If the camera cable’s plug won’t come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.
Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly “walk” the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable’s plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.

If the camera cable’s plug won’t come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.

Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly “walk” the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

Step 7

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.
Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.
Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Step 8

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.
Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Step 9

              Rubber Hinge Covers

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

Step 10

              Display Assembly Screws

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.
Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.

Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.

Step 11

              I/O Board Cable

If your I/O Board cable’s connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don’t pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.
Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.
In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

If your I/O Board cable’s connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don’t pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.

Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.

In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

Step 12

              Airport Card

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Step 13

Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.
Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.

Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

Step 14

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.
Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Step 15

Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Step 16

Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
When reinstalling the fan, it’s easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

When reinstalling the fan, it’s easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Step 17

              Left Fan

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Step 18

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don’t fully torque the screws until you’ve first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don’t fully torque the screws until you’ve first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

Step 19

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.
Lift the left fan out of the device.
When reinstalling the fan, it’s easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

Lift the left fan out of the device.

When reinstalling the fan, it’s easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Step 20

SSD

Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Step 21

Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 22

              I/O Board

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.
Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 23

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.
On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.
Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.

Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Step 24

              Logic Board Removal

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Step 25

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cableZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cableZIF socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

Step 27

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 28

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 29

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 30

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
The location of this screw may vary between models.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

The location of this screw may vary between models.

Step 31

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw
Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

Step 32

Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.
You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.
Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

Step 33

Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.
When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.
Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.

When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

Step 34

              Upper Case Assembly

Remove the single 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left rubber hinge cover in place.
Slide the hinge cover out of its bezel, then lift it up and out of the device.
The screw in the right hinge cover should already have been removed.
Slide the right cover out of its bezel, then lift it out of the device.

Remove the single 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left rubber hinge cover in place.

Slide the hinge cover out of its bezel, then lift it up and out of the device.

The screw in the right hinge cover should already have been removed.

Slide the right cover out of its bezel, then lift it out of the device.

Step 35

Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the upper microphone.
Slide the blade of a plastic opening tool along the bottom of the upper microphone, releasing the adhesive.
Be careful when releasing the adhesive holding the cable down, as these cables have been known to tear easily.
In a similar manner, release the adhesive underneath the lower microphone.
Lift the cable out of the device.

Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the upper microphone.

Slide the blade of a plastic opening tool along the bottom of the upper microphone, releasing the adhesive.

Be careful when releasing the adhesive holding the cable down, as these cables have been known to tear easily.

In a similar manner, release the adhesive underneath the lower microphone.

Lift the cable out of the device.

Step 36

Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
Depending on your model, the DC-In board may not be secured to the upper case.
Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right to free it from its recess within the upper case.
Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

Depending on your model, the DC-In board may not be secured to the upper case.

Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right to free it from its recess within the upper case.

Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

Step 37

Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

Step 38

Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw
One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw
Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

Step 39

Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.
We purposely have you leave two screws attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

We purposely have you leave two screws attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Step 40

Open the device between 90 and 100 degrees, then rest it on its side.
While supporting both halves of the device with one hand, unscrew the upper 5.3 mm T8 Torx screw.
Repeat the same process for the identical bottom screw.
Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with one hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

Open the device between 90 and 100 degrees, then rest it on its side.

While supporting both halves of the device with one hand, unscrew the upper 5.3 mm T8 Torx screw.

Repeat the same process for the identical bottom screw.

Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with one hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

Step 41

Grip both halves of the device. Firmly put one hand on the top center of the upper case (left) and one in the same place on the display assembly (right).
While holding the display assembly in place, slowly push forward on the upper case, releasing it from the display assembly.

Grip both halves of the device. Firmly put one hand on the top center of the upper case (left) and one in the same place on the display assembly (right).

While holding the display assembly in place, slowly push forward on the upper case, releasing it from the display assembly.

Step 42

Upper case remains.

Upper case remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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Jon Waldroup - Jul 21, 2016

Is there anyway to fix a track pad that is sticking Not clicking and selecting things at randon

gilles DG - May 27, 2020

Un gros coup d’air comprimé m’a suffit à résoudre le problème. A big blow of compressed air was enough to solve the problem ( insists on the lower left level and gap)

lorinleonte - Mar 2, 2017

If this needs to be done in order to replace a faulty battery pack… some nylon string, sprinkled with a generous amount of caution, will do the trick.

Once I removed the right speaker, it only took me 10 minutes to cut the glue holding the batteries.

It is very doable if one proceeds with caution.

fporcelli2010 - Dec 6, 2017

what changes from the 2012-early 2013 upper case to the late 2013-2014?

Reejo Samuel - Dec 29, 2020

Just make sure to remove the headphone jack from the body as well. It is fastened with two T5 screws. The connector is disconnected part of this guide already.

Introduction#

What you need#

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Introduction

What you need

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