Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

33

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

11

  • Lower Case
  • 2 steps
  • Battery Connector
  • 2 steps
  • AirPort/Camera Cable
  • 4 steps
  • Rubber Hinge Covers
  • 1 step
  • I/O Board Cable
  • 1 step
  • Right Fan
  • 5 steps
  • Left Fan
  • 3 steps
  • SSD
  • 2 steps
  • I/O Board
  • 2 steps
  • Logic Board Removal
  • 10 steps
  • MagSafe DC-In Board
  • 1 step

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Lower Case
  • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
  • Eight 3.0 mm
  • Two 2.3 mm

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

Eight 3.0 mm

Two 2.3 mm

1024

Step 2

  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
  • Set the lower case aside.

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

Set the lower case aside.

Step 3

              Battery Connector
  • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Step 4

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn’t accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn’t accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Step 5

              AirPort/Camera Cable
  • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
  • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.
  • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

Step 6

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable’s plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.
  • If the camera cable’s plug won’t come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.
  • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly “walk” the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable’s plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

The plug in the photo has six connections, but some models have twelve connections. The process of removing the plug from its socket is the same for both.

If the camera cable’s plug won’t come easily out of its socket on the logic board, fold back the rubber cover over the fan to gain access to the cable, then gently pull on the cable while using the spudger to gently push the plug out of its socket.

Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly “walk” the plug out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

Step 7

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.
  • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.
  • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Step 8

  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
  • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.
  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Step 9

              Rubber Hinge Covers
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

Step 10

              I/O Board Cable
  • If your I/O Board cable’s connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don’t pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.
  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.
  • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
  • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

If your I/O Board cable’s connectors have notches in the padding, you will need to release a locking lever underneath the notch in order to remove the cable. If this is the case, don’t pry up on the connector until the levers are unlatched.

Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

During reassembly, connect this end first, as it does not flex.

In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

Step 11

              Airport Card
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 (sometimes T6) Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Step 12

  • Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.
  • Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.

Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.

Step 13

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.
  • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Step 14

  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
  • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw
  • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
  • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Step 15

  • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
  • When reinstalling the fan, it’s easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

When reinstalling the fan, it’s easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Step 16

              Left Fan
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Step 17

  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
  • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
  • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
  • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
  • When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don’t fully torque the screws until you’ve first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

When reinstalling the fan and its screws, don’t fully torque the screws until you’ve first installed all of them loosely, so that the fan can move a little and position itself properly as you insert the screws into their threaded standoffs.

Step 18

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
  • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.
  • Lift the left fan out of the device.
  • When reinstalling the fan, it’s easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

Lift the left fan out of the device.

When reinstalling the fan, it’s easier to connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you’ve installed the three fan screws.

Step 19

              SSD
  • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Step 20

  • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 21

              I/O Board
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 22

  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.
  • On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.
  • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.

Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Step 23

              Logic Board Removal
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
  • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Step 24

  • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cableZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cableZIF socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 25

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

Step 26

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 27

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Step 28

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Step 29

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
  • The location of this screw may vary between models.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

The location of this screw may vary between models.

Step 30

  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
  • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
  • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw
  • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw
  • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
  • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

Step 31

  • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.
  • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.
  • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
  • Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

Disconnecting the MagSafe 2 connector can be difficult. If you are only removing the logic board to temporarily get it out of the way, such as for a battery replacement, you may find it easier to simply remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board, and then remove the logic board and MagSafe board together.

Step 32

  • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
  • While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.
  • When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.
  • Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

While the logic board and fans are removed, use a can of compressed air and a soft, non-static brush to remove dust and other debris from the upper case and the logic board, particularly from the fan exhaust openings along the rear edge of the upper case.

When reinstalling the motherboard, make sure all cables, and the two rubber heat sink/fan covers, are visible and not trapped under the motherboard.

Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.

Step 33

              MagSafe DC-In Board
  • Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components.
  • Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.
  • Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right to free it from its recess within the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

Rotate the device 180 degrees to more easily access the rest of the internal components.

Remove the two 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right to free it from its recess within the upper case.

Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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mikeandres2003 - Feb 23, 2016

Reply

I have a 820-3332 logic board (late 2013 MBP 15" Retina, same as this how-to) ) that is missing the socket on the underside of the logic board the magsafe board’s wired connection slides into on the underside of the logic board as shown in the final steps. I can’t find any mention of a new one anywhere. Looks like it was glued on at the factory. So I’m sitting here with a brand new magsafe 2 board with no way to attach it to the logic board. I though of soldering it directly to the pins that the socket mounts up against on the logic board but there are six pins on the logic board and five wires going to five connection points inside the connector that slides into the socket on the board. Looking at the six pin holes in the new magsafe 2 board connector from the top I see three wires, an empty pin hole and then two wires so I wouldn’t even know which pins to attach to which board.

Anyone have any suggestions for this mess?

Any suggestions?

barryjaylevine - Dec 21, 2016

Reply

Wow! Somewhat complicated to get that DC board out. Wondering if I should even attempt this.

I have a liquid-damaged (coffee) MBP of this vintage. If I plug in the power adapter, the machine boots and runs fine; however, it shows the battery is “not available” in the battery menu and, when I unplug the magsafe adapter, the machine immediately powers off. As the logic board seems to work fine when plugged in, what do you think about attempting to stick in a DC board? Or is that battery “not available” message an indicator that the battery is also hosed? I don’t see any obvious damage to the battery (but…).

Thanks for any advice.

Thomas Egelund - Apr 3, 2018

Reply

This guide is very good and simple to follow. It may seem tricky but it really isn’t, just take your time to unscrew everything and place them in labeled bins, so you can remember where each screw goes.

I had a bit of trouble with the logic board, after everything was unscrewed it took some fiddling around to finally get the logic board to release and lift up.

Great tutorial.

sorenlund - Oct 21, 2018

Reply

Great guide! Easier than it looked at first glance!

Mike Bachman - Apr 12, 2019

Reply

Great, thank you. I got a 20 euro MagSafe board and it works perfectly.

The guide is accurate, and it is indeed easier than I expected.

For reassembly though I had to take out the logic board twice again because one of the small connectors ‘stayed behind’ the logic board and I only discovered later.

So a tip is to count the connectors you removed, and count again to make sure all are in place to connect and didn’t stay in an unreachable place before you reattach the logic board.

Also as another tip, for easier reassembly, I put all the screws (and some parts) on the adhesive tape so they stayed in place and I could spatially fix them. I glued the tape to a paper sheet so I could take notes at which step the screws belonged and also other notes.