Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
27
Time Required
1 - 3 hours
Sections
6
- Lower Case
- 2 steps
- Battery
- 1 step
- Fan
- 3 steps
- Logic Board
- 13 steps
- Heat Sink
- 2 steps
- Logic Board
- 6 steps
Flags
0
BackMacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Remove the lower case screws
- Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
- Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
- Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
1024
Step 2
Lift the lower case away
- Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
Step 3
Battery
- For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
- Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 4
Fan
- Use a spudger to pry up the fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.
- It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.
- The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
Use a spudger to pry up the fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.
It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.
The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
Step 5
- Remove the following three screws:
- One 7 mm T6 Torx screw
- Two 5.4 mm T6 Torx screws
Remove the following three screws:
One 7 mm T6 Torx screw
Two 5.4 mm T6 Torx screws
Step 6
- Lift the fan out of the upper case.
Lift the fan out of the upper case.
Step 7
Logic Board
- Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
- Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board.
- Do not pull the connector upwards, or you may damage the connector.
Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board.
Do not pull the connector upwards, or you may damage the connector.
Step 8
- Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:
- One 8.6 mm Phillips
- One 5.6 mm Phillips
- Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:
One 8.6 mm Phillips
One 5.6 mm Phillips
Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.
Step 9
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.
Step 10
- Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
- This socket is metal and can be easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.
Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
This socket is metal and can be easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.
Step 11
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.
Step 12
- Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
- Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
Step 13
- Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.
Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.
Step 14
- Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
- Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
Step 15
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.
Step 16
- Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.
Step 17
- Remove the following screws:
- Two 7 mm T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board
- Five 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws
- Two 4 mm T6 Torx screws
Remove the following screws:
Two 7 mm T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board
Five 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws
Two 4 mm T6 Torx screws
Step 18
- Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery’s case near its bar code.
- Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:
- One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw
- One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw
- Lift the battery out of the upper case.
Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery’s case near its bar code.
Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:
One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw
One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw
Lift the battery out of the upper case.
Step 19
- Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.
- Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.
Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.
Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.
Step 20
Heat Sink
- Remove the four 8.5 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
- A spring is held under each of these screws. Be careful not to lose it.
Remove the four 8.5 mm Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
A spring is held under each of these screws. Be careful not to lose it.
Step 21
- Gently lift the heat sink off the logic board.
- When you mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. We have a guide that makes replacing the thermal paste easy.
Gently lift the heat sink off the logic board.
When you mount the heat sink back onto the logic board, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. We have a guide that makes replacing the thermal paste easy.
Step 22
Logic Board
- Peel off the tape covering the microphone cable connector and left speaker cable connector.
Peel off the tape covering the microphone cable connector and left speaker cable connector.
Step 23
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off the logic board.
Step 24
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up off the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up off the logic board.
Step 25
- Carefully peel the left speaker/microphone assembly off the adhesive securing it to the logic board.
Carefully peel the left speaker/microphone assembly off the adhesive securing it to the logic board.
Step 26
- Disconnect the DC-In board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the DC-In board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.
Step 27
- Release the tabs on each side of the chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.
- These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to “pop” up.
- After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.
- Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.
- Logic board remains.
Release the tabs on each side of the chip by simultaneously pushing each tab away from the RAM.
These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to “pop” up.
After the RAM chip has popped up, pull it straight out of its socket.
Repeat this process if a second RAM chip is installed.
Logic board remains.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Walter Galan
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rishi - Feb 15, 2017
Reply
My Mac book pro mid 2010 unibody 13’ suddenly stopped working and was diagnosed for water damage. followed step by step instruction to disassemble and reassemble the logic board. Even the cleaning procedure for the water damage was available on the ifixit website. The author’s instructions are very clear and precise and the colour coded markings about the screws and all other instruction are very precise. My mac book is now back to life after two years. THANKS A LOT to IFIXIT and the AUTHOR.
Shelley McKaughan - Feb 24, 2018
Reply
Thanks so much. A Wonderful Resourse. The Logic board Tutorial is great and computer is working so far!
Logic board purchased from ifix also!
Dan - Feb 13, 2019
Reply
Absolutely great guide for logic board replacement. iFixIt.com was also great in overnighting a replacement to the first logic board they sent me because it was missing the fan connector. Love the warranty on their boards. Worth the extra money vs buying on eBay, etc.
phfred - Apr 17, 2021
Reply
Is a Macbook Pro mid 2012 mobo compatible with this macbook pro mid 2010 ?
Ben Capehart - Nov 14, 2022
nope, It looks like it would, but no