Macbook Pro 13 Touch Bar Late 2016 Battery Replacement Repair Guide

Featured

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

Disable Auto Boot
1 step
Lower Case
7 steps
Battery Connector
7 steps
Trackpad
8 steps
Logic Board Assembly
43 steps
Battery
22 steps

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BackMacBook Pro 13" Touch Bar 2016
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Introduction

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. If a charged lithium-ion battery is accidentally punctured, a dangerous and uncontrollable fire may result. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

What you need

Step 1

              Disable Auto Boot

Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac’s Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.
Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or “enter.”
You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.
When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac’s Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or “enter.”

You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

1024

Step 2

              Remove the pentalobe screws

Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
Two 6.2 mm screws
Four 3.4 mm screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

Two 6.2 mm screws

Four 3.4 mm screws

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Step 3

              Open a gap using a suction cup

Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.
Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

Apply a suction handle to the lower case near the front-center area of the MacBook Pro.

Lift the suction handle to create a slight gap between the lower case and the chassis.

Step 4

              Separate the clips

Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Insert one corner of an opening pick into the space between the lower case and the chassis.

Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and halfway up the side of the case.

This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case to the chassis. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

Step 5

Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, sliding your opening pick under the lower case and up the side to pop the second clip free.

Step 6

Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.
Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.
Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

Insert your opening pick once again under the front edge of the lower case, near one of the two centermost screw holes.

Give the pick a firm twist to pop free the third clip securing the lower case to the chassis.

Repeat this procedure near the other of the two centermost screw holes, popping the fourth clip free.

Step 7

Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This can require a lot of force.

Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

Pull first at one corner, then the other.

Pull to the side—not up.

This can require a lot of force.

Step 8

              Remove the lower case

Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.

Step 9

              Uncover the battery connector

Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
Remove the tape.

Carefully peel up the large piece of tape covering the battery connector, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

Remove the tape.

Step 10

Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

Gently peel back the small piece of tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

The tape is integrated into the ribbon cable and will not detach completely. Simply peel it back enough to access the connector.

Step 11

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the small black locking tab securing the cable in its connector.

Step 12

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.
Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

Step 13

Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

Fold the battery board data cable to the side and out of the way.

Step 14

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

Step 15

              Disconnect the battery

Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

Lift the connector high enough so that it stays separated from its socket. If it accidentally makes contact during the course of your repair, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

Step 16

              Remove the trackpad connector screws

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the trackpad cable connector bracket.

Step 17

Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket with a pair of tweezers.

Remove the trackpad cable connector bracket with a pair of tweezers.

Step 18

              Disconnect the trackpad

Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable by gently prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Step 19

              Heat the trackpad cable

Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.
If you don’t have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

Prepare an iOpener and lay it on top of the trackpad ribbon cable for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the trackpad ribbon cable to the top of the battery.

If you don’t have an iOpener, use a hair dryer to warm up the cable instead. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

Step 20

              Peel up the trackpad cable

Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.
Do not fold or tear the cable.

Carefully peel the trackpad ribbon cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

Do not fold or tear the cable.

Step 21

              Remove the trackpad screws

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:
Two 4.3 mm screws
Eight 5.8 mm screws

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad assembly:

Two 4.3 mm screws

Eight 5.8 mm screws

Step 22

Swing the display open slightly to access the trackpad.
Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out through the hole in the MacBook Pro’s frame.

Swing the display open slightly to access the trackpad.

Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out through the hole in the MacBook Pro’s frame.

Step 23

              Remove the trackpad

Remove the trackpad assembly.
Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.

Remove the trackpad assembly.

Be sure not to lose the six small washers (two circular and four rectangular) resting on the underside of the trackpad.

Step 24

              Remove the keyboard connector screws

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the keyboard connector bracket.

Step 25

Remove the keyboard connector bracket.

Remove the keyboard connector bracket.

Step 26

              Disconnect the keyboard

Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the keyboard connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 27

              Disconnect the display board

Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.
Remove the cover.

Remove the two 2.9 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the main display cable.

Remove the cover.

Step 28

Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.
Remove the cover.

Remove the two 1.7 mm T3 Torx screws securing the aluminum cover on top of the display cable flex connector.

Step 29

Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.

Step 30

              Remove the Thunderbolt port screws

Using a T3 Torx driver:
Remove two 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the left.
Remove two more 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the right.

Using a T3 Torx driver:

Remove two 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the left.

Remove two more 1.4 mm screws from the Thunderbolt port connector bracket on the right.

Step 31

              Disconnect the left Thunderbolt ports

Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt port connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.
Gently push the connector aside so it won’t interfere with logic board removal.

Use a spudger to disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt port connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

Gently push the connector aside so it won’t interfere with logic board removal.

Step 32

              Disconnect the right Thunderbolt ports

Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside.

Repeat for the right-side Thunderbolt port connector, prying it up from the inside edge and pushing it carefully aside.

Step 33

              Remove the Touch ID connector screws

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws from the cover bracket securing the Touch ID and 3.5 mm audio jack connectors.

Step 34

Remove the bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Step 35

              Disconnect the headphone jack

Use a spudger to disconnect the 3.5 mm audio jack flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Gently push the flex cable aside.

Use a spudger to disconnect the 3.5 mm audio jack flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Gently push the flex cable aside.

Step 36

              Disconnect Touch ID

Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Disconnect the Touch ID and power button flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 37

              Heat the Touch ID cable

Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable.

Apply mild heat using an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the power button/Touch ID flex cable.

Step 38

              Pry up the Touch ID cable

Carefully slide an opening pick under the flex cable to separate it from the logic board, and push it carefully aside.
Be very careful not to damage this delicate flex cable. The attached Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to your MacBook’s logic board—if damaged, only Apple can successfully replace it.
If you have trouble, don’t force it—apply a little more heat and try again.

Carefully slide an opening pick under the flex cable to separate it from the logic board, and push it carefully aside.

Be very careful not to damage this delicate flex cable. The attached Touch ID sensor is uniquely paired to your MacBook’s logic board—if damaged, only Apple can successfully replace it.

If you have trouble, don’t force it—apply a little more heat and try again.

Step 39

              Remove the Touch Bar digitizer screw

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.9 mm screw from the Touch Bar digitizer connector bracket.

Step 40

Step 41

              Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer

Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

Step 42

              Remove the Touch Bar display screws

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove two 1.9 mm screws from the Touch Bar display connector bracket.

Step 43

Step 44

              Disconnect the Touch Bar display

Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the Touch Bar display connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 45

              Uncover the microphone connector

Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket.

Peel back any tape covering the microphone connector socket.

Step 46

              Disconnect the microphone

Open the locking flap on the microphone cable’s ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Open the locking flap on the microphone cable’s ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 47

Disconnect the microphone cable by pulling it back—away from the fan—until it slides out of its socket.
If possible, pull on the attached tape, rather than on the cable itself.

Disconnect the microphone cable by pulling it back—away from the fan—until it slides out of its socket.

If possible, pull on the attached tape, rather than on the cable itself.

Step 48

Peel back any tape covering the connector for the left-side tweeter.

Peel back any tape covering the connector for the left-side tweeter.

Step 49

              Disconnect the left tweeter

Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Flip open the locking flap for the left-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 50

Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket.
If possible, pull on the attached tape rather than the cable itself.

Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket.

If possible, pull on the attached tape rather than the cable itself.

Step 51

Underneath the tweeter’s flex cable lies a second ZIF connector, for the left main speaker.
Peel back any tape covering the socket for the left main speaker.

Underneath the tweeter’s flex cable lies a second ZIF connector, for the left main speaker.

Peel back any tape covering the socket for the left main speaker.

Step 52

              Disconnect the left main speaker

Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Flip open the locking flap for the left main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 53

Disconnect the left main speaker cable by pulling it toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.
Remember to pull on the attached tape, not the cable.

Disconnect the left main speaker cable by pulling it toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.

Remember to pull on the attached tape, not the cable.

Step 54

Repeat the previous six steps to disconnect the opposite tweeter and main speaker, on the right.
Begin by peeling back any tape covering the tweeter connector.

Repeat the previous six steps to disconnect the opposite tweeter and main speaker, on the right.

Begin by peeling back any tape covering the tweeter connector.

Step 55

              Disconnect the right tweeter

Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Flip open the locking flap for the right-side tweeter ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 56

Disconnect the cable by pulling it towards the tweeter until it slides out of its socket.
Remember to pull on the tape if possible—not the actual cable.

Remember to pull on the tape if possible—not the actual cable.

Step 57

Peel back any tape covering the connector for the right-side main speaker.

Peel back any tape covering the connector for the right-side main speaker.

Step 58

              Disconnect the right main speaker

Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Flip open the locking flap for the right-side main speaker ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 59

Pull the right-side main speaker cable toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.

Pull the right-side main speaker cable toward the tweeter until it slides free from its socket.

Step 60

              Disconnect the antennas

Disconnect the first antenna cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it’s near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

Disconnect the first antenna cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Carefully slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath the cable until it’s near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

Step 61

Repeat the previous step to disconnect the two remaining antenna cables.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down to snap it into place.

Repeat the previous step to disconnect the two remaining antenna cables.

To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down to snap it into place.

Step 62

              Remove the antenna bundle screw

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

Step 63

              Unscrew the logic board

Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:
Three 2.5 mm Torx T3 screws
Five 2.9 mm Torx T5 screws
Two 3.0 mm Torx T5 screws
During reassembly, install these screws loosely and adjust the logic board’s position if necessary before tightening the screws.

Remove all ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

Three 2.5 mm Torx T3 screws

Five 2.9 mm Torx T5 screws

Two 3.0 mm Torx T5 screws

During reassembly, install these screws loosely and adjust the logic board’s position if necessary before tightening the screws.

Step 64

              Peel up the fan dampers

Peel up (but don’t remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.
If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

Peel up (but don’t remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

Step 65

              Remove the logic board assembly

The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.
There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don’t snag on the board.
Lift from the left side to remove the logic board assembly.

The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.

There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don’t snag on the board.

Lift from the left side to remove the logic board assembly.

Step 66

              Logic board installation

When reinstalling the logic board assembly:
Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.
Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

When reinstalling the logic board assembly:

Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

Step 67

              Unscrew the battery board

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 3.2 mm screws from the battery board.

Step 68

              Protect the display and keyboard

The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can cause damage if it contacts the MacBook Pro’s display or keyboard.
To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can cause damage if it contacts the MacBook Pro’s display or keyboard.

To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

Additionally, use some tape and/or foil to seal off the area under the trackpad. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

Step 69

              Protect the speakers

Before removing the battery, it’s important to protect the speakers on either side. The speakers are glued down just like the battery—so if the liquid adhesive remover gets under the speakers, they may come loose and rattle after your repair.
Cut a length of packing tape or painter’s tape, and slide one edge between the battery and the speaker on the left side.

Before removing the battery, it’s important to protect the speakers on either side. The speakers are glued down just like the battery—so if the liquid adhesive remover gets under the speakers, they may come loose and rattle after your repair.

Cut a length of packing tape or painter’s tape, and slide one edge between the battery and the speaker on the left side.

Step 70

Press all along the edge of the tape with your spudger to stick it securely to the MacBook Pro’s aluminum case, sealing off the speaker from the battery.
Be careful not to poke or puncture the battery.
Fold the tape over and lightly adhere it to the speaker to keep it out of the way.
The foam bumpers on top of the speaker may tear when peeling the tape off. Don’t press the tape directly onto the bumpers.

Press all along the edge of the tape with your spudger to stick it securely to the MacBook Pro’s aluminum case, sealing off the speaker from the battery.

Be careful not to poke or puncture the battery.

Fold the tape over and lightly adhere it to the speaker to keep it out of the way.

The foam bumpers on top of the speaker may tear when peeling the tape off. Don’t press the tape directly onto the bumpers.

Step 71

Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.

Repeat the previous two steps on the opposite side in order to seal off the other speaker from the battery.

Step 72

              Elevate the right edge

To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

To control the flow of adhesive remover and direct it away from the speaker, raise the right edge of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

Step 73

              Protect your eyes and skin

Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it’s time to prep yourself.
iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it’s time to prep yourself.

iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

Step 74

              Open the adhesive remover

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.
This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.
Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

Step 75

              Apply the adhesive remover

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell.
You don’t need to use very much—the small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the far right battery cell.

You don’t need to use very much—the small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

Wait about two minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

Step 76

              Separate the outside right battery cell

After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge.
This shouldn’t require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.
Try not to deform the battery. A damaged battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way under the battery cell.
Lift to fully separate the adhesive, but don’t try to remove the battery cell yet.
Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.

After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the far right battery cell, starting from the front edge.

This shouldn’t require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

Try not to deform the battery. A damaged battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way under the battery cell.

Lift to fully separate the adhesive, but don’t try to remove the battery cell yet.

Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.

Step 77

              Alternative: separate the battery cell with floss

If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
Wear thick gloves or wrap the floss around a couple of driver handles so as not to hurt your fingers.

If you have difficulty getting the card underneath any of the battery cells, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell. Pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

Wear thick gloves or wrap the floss around a couple of driver handles so as not to hurt your fingers.

Step 78

              Elevate the left edge

Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell.
Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.

Repeat the last few steps to separate the far left battery cell.

Begin by elevating the left side of the MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the speaker.

Step 79

              Apply adhesive remover

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under the far left battery cell, and wait about two minutes for it to penetrate.

Step 80

              Separate the outer left cell

Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place.
Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cell to prevent it from re-adhering while you continue.

Slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the far left battery cell, and carefully separate the adhesive holding it in place.

Step 81

              Elevate the back edge

Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.

Next, raise the back edge of your MacBook Pro to direct the flow of adhesive remover away from the keyboard/logic board area.

Step 82

              Apply adhesive remover

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells.
There are openings in the aluminum case underneath these cells, so some of the adhesive remover may leak out instead of penetrating underneath the battery.
Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.
Wait about two minutes before you continue.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover under each of the remaining three battery cells.

There are openings in the aluminum case underneath these cells, so some of the adhesive remover may leak out instead of penetrating underneath the battery.

Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover in the following steps if needed.

Wait about two minutes before you continue.

Step 83

              Separate the inner left cell

The remaining two smaller battery cells each sit on a slightly raised portion of the MacBook’s aluminum frame.
Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro’s aluminum case.

The remaining two smaller battery cells each sit on a slightly raised portion of the MacBook’s aluminum frame.

Slide a plastic card all the way underneath the far left battery cell—which you already separated in the previous steps—and then insert it carefully between the remaining left-side battery cell and the MacBook Pro’s aluminum case.

Step 84

Use your plastic card to fully separate the remaining battery cell on the left side.
Leave your plastic card in place temporarily to prevent the left-side battery cells from re-adhering.

Use your plastic card to fully separate the remaining battery cell on the left side.

Leave your plastic card in place temporarily to prevent the left-side battery cells from re-adhering.

Step 85

              Separate the inner right cell

Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.

Repeat the previous two steps to separate the remaining battery cell on the right.

Step 86

              Separate the middle cell

The final battery cell can be more difficult to remove. If needed, apply more adhesive remover to make the job easier.
Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of the large center battery cell.
Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell to fully separate the adhesive holding it in place.

The final battery cell can be more difficult to remove. If needed, apply more adhesive remover to make the job easier.

Slide the corner of one of your plastic cards underneath the top edge of the large center battery cell.

Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell to fully separate the adhesive holding it in place.

Step 87

              Remove the battery

Remove the battery.
Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro’s case.
Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.
Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.
This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.
When you’re done, carefully remove the protective tape from the speakers.

Remove the battery.

Before installing a new battery, remove all remaining adhesive from the MacBook Pro’s case.

Peel off any large strips of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.

Scrape away any remaining chunks of adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction (not back and forth) until the chassis is clean and ready for your new battery.

This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

When you’re done, carefully remove the protective tape from the speakers.

Step 88

              Battery installation

Double-check the fit and alignment of your new battery before sticking it down.
Be mindful of the battery data cable and make sure it doesn’t get pinched or trapped under the battery board.
If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.
Carefully position the battery and set it into place.
Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.

Double-check the fit and alignment of your new battery before sticking it down.

Be mindful of the battery data cable and make sure it doesn’t get pinched or trapped under the battery board.

If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, flip it over and carefully peel away the liner to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to keep your battery in place.

Carefully position the battery and set it into place.

Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.

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                    Jeff Suovanen

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darren pearce - Feb 6, 2020

You can remove the battery without removing the logic board, took me 45mins all in.

I did up to step 23 then jumped to 64, only a tiny bit of the battery cable is under the board and isnt glued down so can be removed/inserted easily.

i also didnt turn off autoboot as once the battery is disconnected it wont boot.

Kerry Kerschbaumer - Mar 26, 2020

Darren - thanks for the hint! I was also wondering (and wouldn’t want to do) why to extract the whole logic board.

Overall took me an hour or so and I used the “thread” method to actually remove the batteries instead of the glue remover. Worked fine for me. The only issue was with getting the battery cable from und the board because of the tight fitting with the separator “wall” between the logic board and the main battery cell. I ended up breaking the glued little wall from the case, then you can easily slide the cable under the board and afterwards gluing it back into place.

All good now :-)

ian jeffreys - Apr 8, 2020

I exactly what Kerry did. You can break that “wall” and then you can easily slide the cable in under the logic board. Not sure what that wall does other than provide a stop from the bottom case pushing on battery. I glued it back and didn’t seem to have any problems. I did not use the double side tape to secure the batteries so it would be easier to change the next time. Don’ t know why apple has to put so much glue. Scraping off the batteries is the hardest part!

ian jeffreys - Apr 9, 2020

Here is a link to a picture of the batter “wall” that you can break off and then glue back. This will save you from removing the logic board:

https://spee.ch/4/macbook-pro-13-touch-b…

47Chromes - May 26, 2020

I replaced the battery and it started up at first but when I went to unplug the mac it shut off, the next time I started it up it said that the battery wasn’t charging and shut off when I unplugged it even though the battery had 73% of charge. I opened the mac and made sure I did all the steps and make sure the battery was plugged in correctly, but now it won’t even startup at all.

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