Macbook Pro 13 Retina Display Mid 2014 Trackpad Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          2 - 3 hours

Sections

Lower Case
3 steps
Battery Connector
3 steps
Right Speaker
8 steps
iOpener Heating
4 steps
Battery
16 steps
Trackpad
12 steps

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Introduction

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

What you need

Step 1

              Lower Case

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

1024

Step 2

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

Step 3

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.
During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

Step 4

              Battery Connector

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

Step 5

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

Step 6

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

Step 7

              Right Speaker

Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

Step 8

Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

Step 9

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

Step 10

Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.
To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

Step 11

Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 12

Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

Step 13

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

Step 14

Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

Step 15

              iOpener Heating

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Step 16

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 17

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Step 18

              Alternate iOpener heating method

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

Step 19

              Battery

Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.
Your specific unit may only have one screw securing the battery’s circuit board to the frame.

Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.

Your specific unit may only have one screw securing the battery’s circuit board to the frame.

Step 20

The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro’s display.
To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

The liquid adhesive remover provided in your iFixit battery replacement kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro’s display.

To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

Step 21

If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it’s time to get it prepped.
Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.
iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.
Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it’s time to get it prepped.

Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

Step 22

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.
Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.
This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.
Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.
Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

Step 23

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.
You don’t need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
Use more adhesive remover if needed, but do not apply more than a few drops at a time. Using too much can allow the adhesive remover to make its way to the backside of your keyboard and potentially damage it.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

You don’t need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

Use more adhesive remover if needed, but do not apply more than a few drops at a time. Using too much can allow the adhesive remover to make its way to the backside of your keyboard and potentially damage it.

Step 24

If you don’t have a liquid adhesive remover, you’ll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.
Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.
After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

If you don’t have a liquid adhesive remover, you’ll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.

After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

Step 25

Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.
Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.
When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you’re working on.

Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you’re working on.

Step 26

Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

Step 27

Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:
Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.
Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

Apply a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

Step 28

Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.
If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.
Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

Step 29

Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.
Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

Remember to apply a small amount of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

Step 30

Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.
In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

Step 31

To separate the adhesive securing the final two, middle battery cells, apply a few more drops of liquid adhesive remover (or your iOpener) to each cell.
Apply the adhesive remover sparingly, since the trackpad lies beneath this area of the battery.
It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.
Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

To separate the adhesive securing the final two, middle battery cells, apply a few more drops of liquid adhesive remover (or your iOpener) to each cell.

Apply the adhesive remover sparingly, since the trackpad lies beneath this area of the battery.

It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

Step 32

Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

Step 33

By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.
Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.

By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.

Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.

Step 34

Remove the battery.
Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro’s case.
With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.
Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.
The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery’s fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren’t on your original battery, remove them now.
Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.
If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro’s SMC.

Remove the battery.

Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro’s case.

With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery’s fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren’t on your original battery, remove them now.

Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro’s SMC.

Step 35

              Trackpad

Place a reheated iOpener over the trackpad cover plate to soften the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Place a reheated iOpener over the trackpad cover plate to soften the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Step 36

Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the trackpad cover plate up from the upper case.
Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.

Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the trackpad cover plate up from the upper case.

Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.

Step 37

Use a plastic opening tool to slowly and carefully peel the trackpad cover plate up off the upper case.

Use a plastic opening tool to slowly and carefully peel the trackpad cover plate up off the upper case.

Step 38

Gently peel the plate up to remove it.

Gently peel the plate up to remove it.

Step 39

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

Step 40

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

Step 41

Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 42

Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the upper case opening where the trackpad ribbon cable passes is routed through.
Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the upper case opening where the trackpad ribbon cable passes is routed through.

Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Step 43

Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case.
Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws
Four 1.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case.

Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws

Four 1.7 mm T5 Torx screws

Step 44

Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

Step 45

To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.
Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.
This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.
Guide the trackpad out of the upper casewith your other hand, so it doesn’t fall.

To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.

This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.

Guide the trackpad out of the upper casewith your other hand, so it doesn’t fall.

Step 46

Gently pull the trackpad away from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

Gently pull the trackpad away from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Sam Goldheart

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peteuliana - May 10, 2015

I have a non clicking trackpad in a mid 2014 chassis, i brought it to the mac store and they say they found liquid damage throughout the computer. weather i believe them is besides the point it is a backup machine and I am not going to spend $700 to clean it out. There doesn’t seam to be any trackpads for sale on here. Are they available?

Waynoenterprises - Mar 25, 2016

Just replaced the trackpad on a Macbook Pro A1502. The customer had used the item very little and the trackpad had just failed completely. I found a seller on ebay with a brand new part and went about replacing it. The pentolope screws should have been no problem but one was cross threaded and would not come out. We had to drill it out. Big pain in the butt. Having swapped trackpads in Macbooks before this by comparison was much harder. The battery is glued in but upon further inspection it looks to have been designed to screw in and even has screw holes in the chassis and covered screw holes in the battery. This design seems to go along with the throw away mentality of apple. Apple store said water damage but there was none at all. They wanted 400$. The previous Macbook model they year before had recalled Trackpad issues but not this one???. Really crappy Apple dropped the ball on this one accusing customers of damage and doing nothing to replace a defective part. Thank You for the great fix it!!

john - Jul 10, 2016

7/7/2016. I took my 15" retina to the Genius Bar at the Grove where I bought it 3 years ago, as the pointer was jumping around. It would settle down sometimes, then would act up again. A readout showed that the extreme rhs of the pad was not functioning. Had to leave it. Could not open and fix it at home. Was told this was a unibody, and the entire top of the case needs to be replaced. Will cost me $310 plus tax, and 4 days. They sure don’t want us to fool with it!

markus ernst - Oct 17, 2016

I’ve a question. At first I want to say, my English is not the best but I hope you understand me and anyone can answer my question. I’ve also a problem with the trackpad and I studied this guide a lot. I will start in a few days to try to fix this by replacing the trackpad. The only question I have is, that when I have replaced the trackpad, does I have to use some new glue to stick the battery back in the macbook. Or will the glue which is already on the battery be enough ? I found some glue on amazon which u can use for iPhone displays or something like this and I’m probably going to use this one. Has anybody replaced his trackpad and could give me an answer ? Thanks in advance.. :)

Serena Zitarrosa - Jul 5, 2017

Hello!! I have a Macbook Pro retina 13"(mid 2014) (model:A1502). Yesterday I took my mac to the technical service because the mouse is not working well, and I did’nt know if the problem was software or the trackpad.

They say it’s the trackpad, but they should change the whole topcase, and it would cost me almost $ 700 to repair. They say that in this model can not be changed only the trackpad!!! From what I’m seeing here they did not tell me the truth.

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