Difficulty
Difficult
Steps
42
Time Required
45 minutes - 2 hours
Sections
9
- Lower Case
- 2 steps
- Battery Connector
- 1 step
- I/O Board Cable
- 2 steps
- Fan
- 5 steps
- Logic Board Assembly
- 13 steps
- I/O Board
- 6 steps
- Display Assembly
- 5 steps
- Upper Case
- 3 steps
- Upper Case
- 5 steps
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0
BackMacBook Air 11" Early 2014
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Introduction
What you need
Step 1
Lower Case
- Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.
- Remove the following ten screws:
- Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
- Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
- The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.
Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.
Remove the following ten screws:
Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws
The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.
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Step 2
- Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
Step 3
Battery Connector
- In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
- Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.
In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.
Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.
Step 4
I/O Board Cable
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.
Step 5
- Lift and remove the I/O board cable.
Lift and remove the I/O board cable.
Step 6
Fan
- Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.
- We recommend you gently “walk” the connector out of its socket.
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.
We recommend you gently “walk” the connector out of its socket.
Step 7
- Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.
Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.
Step 8
- Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
- Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Step 9
- Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
- Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws
- One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw
- In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.
Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws
One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw
In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.
Step 10
- Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.
- Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.
Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.
Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.
Step 11
Logic Board Assembly
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.
Step 12
- Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
- Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws
- One 6 mm T5 Torx screw
- Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws
Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws
One 6 mm T5 Torx screw
Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws
Step 13
- When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.
- Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.
Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
Step 14
- Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
- Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.
Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.
Step 15
- Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.
Step 16
- Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.
- While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.
- Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.
While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.
Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
Step 17
- Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.
- De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.
De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.
Step 18
- Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
- Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
- Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.
Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.
Step 19
- Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
- Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
- Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.
Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
Step 20
- Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
Step 21
- Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
- To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.
To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
Step 22
- Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
- In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.
Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.
Step 23
- Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.
- When replacing the logic board, insert the board’s rubber edge under the port-side rubber gasket, then lower the board into place.
Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.
When replacing the logic board, insert the board’s rubber edge under the port-side rubber gasket, then lower the board into place.
Step 24
I/O Board
- Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the the I/O board.
- Remove the gasket from the corner nearest display cable connector.
Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the the I/O board.
Remove the gasket from the corner nearest display cable connector.
Step 25
- If necessary, use tweezers to remove any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
If necessary, use tweezers to remove any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.
Step 26
- Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.
- Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
- With a pair of tweezers, pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.
Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
With a pair of tweezers, pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
Step 27
- Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.
- De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.
De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.
Step 28
- Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
Step 29
- Carefully lift the I/O board by its power cable and pull it away from the edge of the case.
Carefully lift the I/O board by its power cable and pull it away from the edge of the case.
Step 30
Display Assembly
- Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.
- In some models there are seven cable loops.
- Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.
- Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.
- Repeat this for each retaining loop until the antenna cables are free from the upper case.
Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.
In some models there are seven cable loops.
Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.
Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.
Repeat this for each retaining loop until the antenna cables are free from the upper case.
Step 31
- Remove the inner 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing each display hinge to the upper case (two screws total).
Remove the inner 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing each display hinge to the upper case (two screws total).
Step 32
- Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
- While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
Step 33
- Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.
- Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.
Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
Step 34
- Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.
- Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display.
Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.
Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display.
Step 35
Upper Case
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
- Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.
- Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.
Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
Step 36
- Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
- Only pry up on the speaker from the areas of bare aluminum on the upper case. Prying up from the keyboard area may damage the keyboard and the speaker itself.
- Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
Step 37
- Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the side of the upper case.
- Remove the microphone from the upper case.
- Upper case remains.
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the side of the upper case.
Remove the microphone from the upper case.
Upper case remains.
Step 38
Upper Case
- The ZIF connector for the keyboard ribbon cable is hidden under the cable itself.
- Push/lift the keyboard ribbon cable off of the upper case with one hand.
- With the other hand, use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the ZIF connector.
- Once the retaining flap has been flipped up, carefully pull the ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
The ZIF connector for the keyboard ribbon cable is hidden under the cable itself.
Push/lift the keyboard ribbon cable off of the upper case with one hand.
With the other hand, use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the ZIF connector.
Once the retaining flap has been flipped up, carefully pull the ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
Step 39
- Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the trackpad ribbon cable from the underside of the keyboard.
- The cable is held in place with adhesive. Work carefully, and be sure to not let the spudger slip and damage any components.
Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the trackpad ribbon cable from the underside of the keyboard.
The cable is held in place with adhesive. Work carefully, and be sure to not let the spudger slip and damage any components.
Step 40
- Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.
- Check your replacement upper case—if it doesn’t have this wide T5 screw, remove it to transfer into the replacement.
- This is an adjustment screw to set the distance of the click of the trackpad—on reassembly, test the click and adjust this screw until it feels right.
Remove the six 1.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.
Check your replacement upper case—if it doesn’t have this wide T5 screw, remove it to transfer into the replacement.
This is an adjustment screw to set the distance of the click of the trackpad—on reassembly, test the click and adjust this screw until it feels right.
Step 41
- Holding the upper case up off the table with one hand, gently push the trackpad up through the upper case.
- Remove the trackpad from the upper case.
Holding the upper case up off the table with one hand, gently push the trackpad up through the upper case.
Remove the trackpad from the upper case.
Step 42
- The upper case remains.
The upper case remains.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Author
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Sam Goldheart
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David - May 2, 2015
Reply
Thanks to Sam Lionheart for this guide! Yes difficult but a great step by step guide!
A member of our family had a coffee spill on their MacBook Air 11". The Apple Store said the machine was “dead” forever and encouraged us to buy new. I used this guide to take the Air apart, clean it, and put it back together. The Air is now working, it has some minor glitches so we will have to watch it and keep the data backed-up. But it works.
The hardest parts, where I wished there was more hints - helps, were putting the Air back together at: #38 reattaching the larger ZIF connector and #15 reattaching the antenna cables.
Ben Mishkin - Aug 24, 2017
Reply
Thanks to this guide, it was easy. Took me about 2.5 hours total, no problems after re-assembly.
Check your replacement part, mine included cable loops and microphone already installed, so I did not need to remove during disassembly.
Thanks Sam & ifixit!!
Daniel Cho - Dec 10, 2017
Reply
Used this guide to replace the keyboard and backlight to my MacBook Air 11” early 2014 A1465! Had to accompany the repair with a few videos on YouTube for help with KB removal and reinstall. Apple charges 231 including labor and iFixit charges $220 for the top cover, but it’s not necessary. Ordered the KB, backlight, and extra set of screws (for the KB) on EBay for about $25 total Installing the 50+ KB screws was very tedious and routing the antenna was a pain, but worth saving $200!
watertubigh2o - Mar 6, 2018
Reply
Very good guide. I discovered some a missing screw and gasket. Steps are accurate although I did it in a different order.
Aaron Smela - May 31, 2019
Reply
My 5 year old spilled a glass of water on the keyboard and after opening and putting the computer upside down for a couple of days, it would not do anything. After sitting dead for a month I decided to crack it open. I found a bunch of corrosion (no surprise) on the logic board and some of the connectors and cleaned it all with alcohol. When I put everything back together, the computer actually began charging and was awakened from its sleeping state. However, the keyboard was not working properly, so I decided to order this upper case. While tedious, the replacement was not too difficult. When I finished and powered on, it started up no problem, but it would not connect to the internet (wifi connected, just no internet). A simple restart fixed this issue. Now, the only issue I’m dealing with is that the left “shift,” “opt/alt,” and ‘“ctrl” keys do not work. The standard advice is to reset the SMC, but this requires the use of the affected keys. Please help!