Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
8
Time Required
Suggest a time??
Sections
1
- LED Backlights
- 8 steps
Flags
2
In Progress
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BackLogitech G15 Gaming Keyboard 1st Generation (867619-0403)
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Introduction
Step 1
Verify type of keyboard is correct. Then unplug and prepare to get dirty.
- This is what your keyboard should look like. If you don’t have a swing type LED screen then you might be on the wrong tutorial. I have no idea if any of this applies to the newer fixed LED type keyboard.
- Now if you DO have this version of the G15 then you are in the right place. So step 1: Unplug the keyboard. (DUH)
This is what your keyboard should look like. If you don’t have a swing type LED screen then you might be on the wrong tutorial. I have no idea if any of this applies to the newer fixed LED type keyboard.
Now if you DO have this version of the G15 then you are in the right place. So step 1: Unplug the keyboard. (DUH)
1024
Step 2
Remove bottom screws.
- Next you need to flip over the keyboard in removed the 16 black screws holding the outer black shell on.
- In the picture the holes are circled and numbered.
- The two black screws closer to the “core” of the keyboard (circled in yellow) hold the back light to the back cover so if you opt to, you can keep those in place for now and remove them later.
Next you need to flip over the keyboard in removed the 16 black screws holding the outer black shell on.
In the picture the holes are circled and numbered.
The two black screws closer to the “core” of the keyboard (circled in yellow) hold the back light to the back cover so if you opt to, you can keep those in place for now and remove them later.
Step 3
Lift up on the front cover and remove the LED ribbon cable.
- ****WARNING: Be VERY careful in this step as the ribbon cable is very fragile.
- Flip the keyboard back over.
- CAREFULLY use a flat head screw driver to pry the edges of the front cover up from the back of the keyboard. But DO NOT yet attempt to remove it all the way.
- You may break some of the retainers. You might consider gluing them back on later but they don’t seem to be overly important with the screws doing most of the work. I found that starting from the BACK edge and lifting that slightly first and then working towards the front so it could slide forward and free the front retainers worked well.
- CAREFULLY tilt the FRONT of the keyboard up and look for where the LED screen’s ribbon cable attache to the main board in the far back center.
- Lift up CAREFULLY on the black retainer tab on each side of the slot until the ribbon cable releases (less than a millimeter or two) and pops out of it’s slot. Be careful to not wreck the ribbon or the LED won’t work ever again (at least not without some very complicated repairing).
****WARNING: Be VERY careful in this step as the ribbon cable is very fragile.
Flip the keyboard back over.
CAREFULLY use a flat head screw driver to pry the edges of the front cover up from the back of the keyboard. But DO NOT yet attempt to remove it all the way.
You may break some of the retainers. You might consider gluing them back on later but they don’t seem to be overly important with the screws doing most of the work. I found that starting from the BACK edge and lifting that slightly first and then working towards the front so it could slide forward and free the front retainers worked well.
CAREFULLY tilt the FRONT of the keyboard up and look for where the LED screen’s ribbon cable attache to the main board in the far back center.
Lift up CAREFULLY on the black retainer tab on each side of the slot until the ribbon cable releases (less than a millimeter or two) and pops out of it’s slot. Be careful to not wreck the ribbon or the LED won’t work ever again (at least not without some very complicated repairing).
Step 4
Remove the USB cable.
- Now would be a good time to get the USB cable out of the way.
- The rubber retainer that is part of the wire that fits into the shell of the keyboard slides up and out easily.
- Remove the usb cable’s female end from the five pin male white connector and set it aside.
Now would be a good time to get the USB cable out of the way.
The rubber retainer that is part of the wire that fits into the shell of the keyboard slides up and out easily.
Remove the usb cable’s female end from the five pin male white connector and set it aside.
Step 5
Remove three larger silver screws.
- Remove the three silver Philips head screws (circled in blue in the pictures) holding the control pad and light button pad against the motherboard and set them aside.
- You have been putting all the screws in a safe place haven’t you?
Remove the three silver Philips head screws (circled in blue in the pictures) holding the control pad and light button pad against the motherboard and set them aside.
You have been putting all the screws in a safe place haven’t you?
Step 6
Remove the smaller screws holding the control/light pad to the motherboard.
- Using a smaller or jeweler size screw driver, remove the 12 smaller silver Philips head screws (circled in orange in the pictures) that hold the light and key panel to the motherboard.
- [I dunno if there are more proper terms for them. Don’t hate. Let me know and I’ll edit.]
Using a smaller or jeweler size screw driver, remove the 12 smaller silver Philips head screws (circled in orange in the pictures) that hold the light and key panel to the motherboard.
[I dunno if there are more proper terms for them. Don’t hate. Let me know and I’ll edit.]
Step 7
Unplug and remove the keyboard from the main board.
- CAREFULLY unplug the NINE (circled in yellow) connectors that connect the key/light board to the main board.
- Some are ribbon style and slide out with the little bit of ugga-dugga (very little), the others are more typical connectors. None of them are as delicate as the LED one you dealt with before so this should be cake.
- The main one of interest is in the upper left that connects the LED lights to the main board.
- Now slowly and CAREFULLY lift the keyboard away from the main board and set the main board aside.
CAREFULLY unplug the NINE (circled in yellow) connectors that connect the key/light board to the main board.
Some are ribbon style and slide out with the little bit of ugga-dugga (very little), the others are more typical connectors. None of them are as delicate as the LED one you dealt with before so this should be cake.
The main one of interest is in the upper left that connects the LED lights to the main board.
Now slowly and CAREFULLY lift the keyboard away from the main board and set the main board aside.
Step 8
Be patient. Work in progress.
- It’s St. Patrick’s Day. I’m going to get some corned beef even if all the bars are closed due to coronavirus.
- Let me know if anyone is alive out there.
It’s St. Patrick’s Day. I’m going to get some corned beef even if all the bars are closed due to coronavirus.
Let me know if anyone is alive out there.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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PsiFire
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BloodShed - Jun 3, 2020
Reply
When will step 8 and beyond be added?
PsiFire - Jun 16, 2020
Been busy with COVID-19 and all. I can try to work on it today some more. Anything in particular you need help with?
BloodShed - Jun 18, 2020
Reply
Separating the ‘light’ plate and removing the LED’s what type I replace them with, comes to mind.
PsiFire - Jun 30, 2020
I ended up getting these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/120973346340
I was optimistic about the result when it was apart but when all back together and it had time to “burn in” the lights still seem a bit dim. If you can get your hands on something brighter, I might suggest using that but YMMV. The stats on those bulbs could provide with at least a starting point.
PsiFire - Jun 30, 2020
Reply
Here’s a page that describes a lot of the basics of LEDs in general: http://www.gizmology.net/LEDs.htm
I’d posit that perhaps a wider viewing angle might be as if not more beneficial than higher MCD, but more MCD likely couldn’t hurt.