Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

4

Time Required

                          25 minutes

Sections

1

  • capacitors
  • 4 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Model and issue
  • This is the door opener, 888LM. I had a constant red/yellow light blinking and a beep coming from the unit. Replacing the garage door opener main board, did not change anything. (screw is marked)

This is the door opener, 888LM. I had a constant red/yellow light blinking and a beep coming from the unit. Replacing the garage door opener main board, did not change anything. (screw is marked)

1024

Step 2

              Remove opener and PCB
  • Flip up the cover, remove the screw. Then slide the opener up the wall. Turn around and you’ll see a wire attached to two screws. Remove those screws and pull up the back paper. You’ll need to pry the PCB board up from the top and then pull up and out.

Flip up the cover, remove the screw. Then slide the opener up the wall. Turn around and you’ll see a wire attached to two screws. Remove those screws and pull up the back paper. You’ll need to pry the PCB board up from the top and then pull up and out.

Step 3

              Replace caps
  • I didn’t take a pic, but the old capacitors were bulging slightly at the top. I ordered two off digikey, 1F 2.7V JUWT1105MCD. Old ones were 1F 2.7v, just make sure they’ll fit the space/holes as they are close together.

I didn’t take a pic, but the old capacitors were bulging slightly at the top. I ordered two off digikey, 1F 2.7V JUWT1105MCD. Old ones were 1F 2.7v, just make sure they’ll fit the space/holes as they are close together.

Step 4

              Done and reinstall
  • Caps replaced. Bend them slightly forward so they fit inside the opener casing. And reinstall in reverse.

Caps replaced. Bend them slightly forward so they fit inside the opener casing. And reinstall in reverse.

Reinstalled after replacing caps and now my garage door functions like it should! I read some reviews off liftmaster’s site for the 888LM and many complain of its short life and replacement.

Cancel: I did not complete this guide.

                                                                                      14 other people completed this guide.

Author

                                      with 3 other contributors 


                    Parnell

Member since: 07/28/2019

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Markus Lankeit - Feb 20, 2020

Reply

My caps were not bulging, but both openers were flashing red & yellow. Bought them in 2014… guess I should count myself lucky they lasted this long! Super easy fix—Nichicon cap’s mentioned above from Digikey work a treat.

Side-note to newbees: make sure you get the polarity right! The cap has a grey stripe on one side—that’s the negative side. The PCB has +’s and -’s printed on the silk-screen (somewhat covered up since it’s 2 caps next to each other). Also, the cap outline on the PCB has one side with a thicker line—that’s the negative side. The pic in the guide has everything correct—follow this if you’re unsure.

Thx for the details!

Parnell - Jun 22, 2020

Oh good catch on Polarity!

Nick Giester - Jun 20, 2020

Reply

Replaced caps and it has been a week with no weird red and yellow blinking or beeping episodes. My caps we’re not bulging.

-Nick

Svalehome - Oct 3, 2020

Reply

I’m so glad I found your posting! Thank you so much! I have the exact same model installed in 2016. A few days ago, the control panel also started beeping and flashing red light every 5-10 seconds. My garage door still opens though. The beeping sound was driving everyone nuts. I called the garage door company and they called LiftMaster and told me I need to buy a replacement control panel (~$85). After pressing for the cause, they finally told me the capacitors went bad. I then followed your recommendations and bought the parts from DigiKey. Everything worked like a charm! So happy I’m not adding to the electronic waste land! Thank you so much!

Jonathan Hayward - Oct 5, 2020

Reply

I had the two blinking lights as described, but no beeping. My garage door was going up and down by itself endlessly until I unplugged it. My caps were not bulging, but one of them leaked fluid onto the pc board. I bought the recommended 1F 2.7V caps, replaced them on the pc board, and now it works perfectly! It appears that Liftmaster bought a bad lot of capacitors. Or, the circuit was poorly engineered and these new caps are doomed to fail again like their predecessors.

Thanks a million for posting this fix!!!